S197CS
Corner Carver
One of my next car detailing oriented purchase. Will be going with one of the EGO.
2007 Mustang GT/CS Vert
- Thread starter S197CS
- Start date
One of my next car detailing oriented purchase. Will be going with one of the EGO.
TrueBlue02058
Post King
Got this at CDN Tire. Not California Water Blade Brand but works better than the brand name one I had before this one.
S197CS
Corner Carver
So,
it's been since somewhere last summer that i have in my basement my new pads and rotors and fresh brake fluid to go along with them. Thought last night it was a good idea to finally install them. Went to one of my friends' garage and put up to work. What I discovered was that the ''backyard car dealer'' I bought that car from in St-Jerôme QC that told me they did a full brake job on it to sell it actually was simply speaking about the cheapo brake pads I had on there. Remove what came to be the OE rotors from as far as I can tell lol.
ouch.... that HAS to leave mark on your paint....
At least they are love marks
it's been since somewhere last summer that i have in my basement my new pads and rotors and fresh brake fluid to go along with them. Thought last night it was a good idea to finally install them. Went to one of my friends' garage and put up to work. What I discovered was that the ''backyard car dealer'' I bought that car from in St-Jerôme QC that told me they did a full brake job on it to sell it actually was simply speaking about the cheapo brake pads I had on there. Remove what came to be the OE rotors from as far as I can tell lol.
ouch.... that HAS to leave mark on your paint....
At least they are love marks
Max, your going to need gagrage for car and another with for cleaning stuff.
S197CS
Corner Carver
So,
it's been since somewhere last summer that i have in my basement my new pads and rotors and fresh brake fluid to go along with them. Thought last night it was a good idea to finally install them. Went to one of my friends' garage and put up to work. What I discovered was that the ''backyard car dealer'' I bought that car from in St-Jerôme QC that told me they did a full brake job on it to sell it actually was simply speaking about the cheapo brake pads I had on there. Remove what came to be the OE rotors from as far as I can tell lol.
See before/after pictures here below. Would have been nice to take a picture before I went for the bedding process, all black rotors
but, my 3AM brain said F-IT.
And then there's the brake fluid ......
I was suspecting it had never been changed and that with my spirited driving, that i must have cooked it a few time too many. I wasn't wrong. Took the better part of 2L of fresh Motul DOT5.1 Brake Fluid to flush the entire system out, one wheel at a time.
See last picture for the nasty .... well.... (can't call that brake fluid anymore ) substance that came out of the calipers as i was bleeding lol .... HAPPY i changed it out!!!
Now I don't know if it's only placebo effect but it does feel like my clutch engagement is better (clutch fluid in these cars is also brake fluid). I did not per say drain the clutch system but since it uses the same as the brake I kind of think it's helping. Brake are feeling sturdy and up to the task like they've never been AND the clutch engagement is feeling better.... alll bonuses
it's been since somewhere last summer that i have in my basement my new pads and rotors and fresh brake fluid to go along with them. Thought last night it was a good idea to finally install them. Went to one of my friends' garage and put up to work. What I discovered was that the ''backyard car dealer'' I bought that car from in St-Jerôme QC that told me they did a full brake job on it to sell it actually was simply speaking about the cheapo brake pads I had on there. Remove what came to be the OE rotors from as far as I can tell lol.
See before/after pictures here below. Would have been nice to take a picture before I went for the bedding process, all black rotors
but, my 3AM brain said F-IT.And then there's the brake fluid ......
I was suspecting it had never been changed and that with my spirited driving, that i must have cooked it a few time too many. I wasn't wrong. Took the better part of 2L of fresh Motul DOT5.1 Brake Fluid to flush the entire system out, one wheel at a time.
See last picture for the nasty .... well.... (can't call that brake fluid anymore ) substance that came out of the calipers as i was bleeding lol .... HAPPY i changed it out!!!
Now I don't know if it's only placebo effect but it does feel like my clutch engagement is better (clutch fluid in these cars is also brake fluid). I did not per say drain the clutch system but since it uses the same as the brake I kind of think it's helping. Brake are feeling sturdy and up to the task like they've never been AND the clutch engagement is feeling better.... alll bonuses
TrueBlue02058
Post King
So,
it's been since somewhere last summer that i have in my basement my new pads and rotors and fresh brake fluid to go along with them. Thought last night it was a good idea to finally install them. Went to one of my friends' garage and put up to work. What I discovered was that the ''backyard car dealer'' I bought that car from in St-Jerôme QC that told me they did a full brake job on it to sell it actually was simply speaking about the cheapo brake pads I had on there. Remove what came to be the OE rotors from as far as I can tell lol.
ouch.... that HAS to leave mark on your paint....
At least they are love marks
No marks at all, the water has beaded cause of all the wax on the car and I make light passes to remove the majority of the water. Washing and drying my Mustang is a Peaceful activity for me that I don’t want to ruin by having to wear ear protection while using noisy Lawn power tool. ?
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I think you were due Max. Look at the fluid. Lol
Fun GT
Mustang Enthusiast
Did the fluid thing on the Stang two years ago and was same thing as Max. Had approx. 90 000 kms on it then, it was black, black, black........
Funny thing just changed the one in wife's daily driver last week and at 122 000 kms it didn't even look like it needed changing.
Suppose our driving habits aren't quite the same I would say. lol lol
Funny thing just changed the one in wife's daily driver last week and at 122 000 kms it didn't even look like it needed changing.
Suppose our driving habits aren't quite the same I would say. lol lol
I would say that has something to do with it Roger. Lol
you have a hard time bleeding them Max? I have never done the complete change myself.
you have a hard time bleeding them Max? I have never done the complete change myself.
S197CS
Corner Carver
Quite easy actually but we took our time. Didn’t use the pump Rich is mentioning above just cracked each bleeder one at a time. Friend was in the car pumping the brake i was cracking the bleeders open.
i will be doing this service probably sometime every each other years now lol. Cannot believe the difference.
Trevor, i had thought about bringing my undercarriage dressing (yeah, there is such a thing ? ) but i forgot it home and just said F-it once the job was started lol ?
Thanks Rich. I may look into one of those pumps and do it myself in the future.
67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
I didn’t really know where the best place for this information was so I hope Max is OK with it being here.
While my car was on lift today I remembered a few mentioning LCA relocation brackets for the S197’s.
Wether Max, Aaron or Al.
On a few occasions I suggested BMR as very good or best choice for those.
So I snapped a couple pics to show why I think they are the best.
You will see they have 3 bolts holding them in.
3 anchor points, whereas most other manufacturers only have 2.
On the RHS the 3 bolts are easily seen.
On the LHS it’s not so obvious but the bolt that secures the Panhard bar also secures the relocation bracket.
You can see a piece of the bracket snaking up behind the Panhard anchor point.
While my car was on lift today I remembered a few mentioning LCA relocation brackets for the S197’s.
Wether Max, Aaron or Al.
On a few occasions I suggested BMR as very good or best choice for those.
So I snapped a couple pics to show why I think they are the best.
You will see they have 3 bolts holding them in.
3 anchor points, whereas most other manufacturers only have 2.
On the RHS the 3 bolts are easily seen.
On the LHS it’s not so obvious but the bolt that secures the Panhard bar also secures the relocation bracket.
You can see a piece of the bracket snaking up behind the Panhard anchor point.
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67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
Also for S197 owners.
If you are looking at adding a supercharger or an aftermarket intake manifold that requires the removal of your strut tower brace, such as was the case for me with the Ford Racing intake, I thought I would show you a few things I did to compensate and provide some chassis stiffness minus the strut brace.
Before, with brace.
After, minus brace.
BTW, the brace from the Boss will clear this FR intake easily on 05-09 V8’s but it will not fit under the OE hood or similar profile hood.
It requires a cowl or quite tall hood to clear it.
In pic 1 bellow, this is the front end.
Easily visible in gold is a k-member to rad support brace by Whiteline. They also call it an A arm support.
It’s made of aluminium but well triangulated and strong, as well as light.
Along with that, if you look further back, behind the oil pan, you can see a k-member brace running horizontally.
It’s a BMR piece and ties the two rear legs of the k-member together.
In pic 2 is the Steeda X brace that I have in the trunk to give stiffness to that part of the chassis.
It’s made of chromoly and ties onto the shock mount points down low and bolts to the bulkhead behind the backseat up high with two stout bolts on each side.
This piece provides very similar chassis strengthening as the brace in the Boss Laguna Seca but allows you to keep the rear seat.
The Boss X brace is no longer available but this piece is.
For ultimate corner carving, these can’t replace the strut tower brace but they compensate pretty well.
Interestingly about the strut tower brace, when I first put it on, I didn’t think it made much difference.
However when I removed it is when I noticed a significant difference and appreciated the support it provided when it was there.
If you are looking at adding a supercharger or an aftermarket intake manifold that requires the removal of your strut tower brace, such as was the case for me with the Ford Racing intake, I thought I would show you a few things I did to compensate and provide some chassis stiffness minus the strut brace.
Before, with brace.
After, minus brace.
BTW, the brace from the Boss will clear this FR intake easily on 05-09 V8’s but it will not fit under the OE hood or similar profile hood.
It requires a cowl or quite tall hood to clear it.
In pic 1 bellow, this is the front end.
Easily visible in gold is a k-member to rad support brace by Whiteline. They also call it an A arm support.
It’s made of aluminium but well triangulated and strong, as well as light.
Along with that, if you look further back, behind the oil pan, you can see a k-member brace running horizontally.
It’s a BMR piece and ties the two rear legs of the k-member together.
In pic 2 is the Steeda X brace that I have in the trunk to give stiffness to that part of the chassis.
It’s made of chromoly and ties onto the shock mount points down low and bolts to the bulkhead behind the backseat up high with two stout bolts on each side.
This piece provides very similar chassis strengthening as the brace in the Boss Laguna Seca but allows you to keep the rear seat.
The Boss X brace is no longer available but this piece is.
For ultimate corner carving, these can’t replace the strut tower brace but they compensate pretty well.
Interestingly about the strut tower brace, when I first put it on, I didn’t think it made much difference.
However when I removed it is when I noticed a significant difference and appreciated the support it provided when it was there.
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Mineral Grey
Well-known member
Thanks is Marc, you are always thorough and detailed in your posts .
S197CS
Corner Carver
You're right, it was mentioned somewhere. I believe Aaron did go with your recommendation of full BMR (including these Relo brackets), where i have for over a year a full whiteline rear end (minus UCA and still to be installed Watts link). My relocation brackets are the whiteline units. Although not adjustable, same idea, same geometry change and the effect was felt immediately leaving the garage parking lot in the form of two lovely black marks I didn't allow for due to the new found propper transfer of power to the ground
I do have to think if i go above or below for the bracing, but really love the underside option you've done. More Whiteline pieces for me lol. But on my end, it's not going to hit my build for a little while still sadly....