1983 GL, project: Cheap Thrills

I knew it was going too smoothly. Air cleaner hits the hood. Combination of the higher edelbrock intake and the oval air cleaner. So now I have to think about a restrictive air cleaner or using the hood scoop I have. Have to think about that for a while...

Want to see what a thousand bucks looks like?

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It sure doesn't seem to go as far as it used to....
 
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I know, I was just hoping to not have to do a hood scoop. But I think I'm not going to have much choice. I prefer a nice, flat, low hood. More a sleeper look than look at me.

I can at least console myself with making the scoop a bit custom and not like anything else out there....
 
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I'm going to have to slice that scoop up and see if I can get it to follow the hood lines a bit better.

It looks "tacked on" and "ricey" to me as it is....
 
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Started reshaping the scoop:

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Looking better. Still not a big fan of it, but warming up to it.

Give me 1 1/2" of extra vertical clearance and the filter is going to sit 2 1/2" back from the scoop leading edge.

Chopping it up and expanding it is easy least since its a fiberglass copy of an 82 hood scoop. An original one would be a pain to do this due to its cheaper materials. I'm also good at fiberglass work.
 
Started re-bonding the scoop:

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Stripped a caliper down and painted it:

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It was a solid reminder of why i despise working on cars from the Maritimes.

The pistons were frozen due to corrosion of the aluminum housing causing all the clearances to close up.

Compressed air wouldn't move them a C hair. C clamp would barely draw them in at all. Bleeder screw was locked solid.

I ended up using a rose bud tip to heat the bleeder screw, tossed caution to the wind and just reefed it out.

Once removed, I brazed a grease nipple to it, vice gripped the rubber hose shut and then used a grease gun to force the pistons out by pumping the housing full through the bleeder port. Still had to gently work one piston out with water pump pliers.

Then is was a couple hours of cleaning out the seal lands from the corroded aluminum "fuzz" that had migrated its way under the dust seals.

Then several washings, blow gun the passages, more washings, more blow gun, cleaning the outer housings with scotch brite, then more brake cleaner washings and blow gun.

Finally into vht red paint.

What a monstrous pita, but its done.

One more to go and sand blast the carriers.

I also managed to snag the door rub strips on ebay for 75 bucks. That's the last of the body pieces I need to convert to the full "GT" style bodywork.
 
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Start:

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In progress:

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(car is admiring it's new "clampers", looks happy! :) )

Finish:

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And no, it wasn't fun.

Maritime weather made it one serious PITA to recondition them. Rust, corrosion and all manner of filth made them look like they just came off the bottom of the ocean.

My 2003 Mach 1 springs are also in there now, although you cant tell with the car still up on jack stands.

Last thing I'm waiting for on the front end is the 2003 Cobra front A Arms (regular SN95 arms in there right now), which are scheduled to show up later this week.

You can see my Bilsteins peeking out in the last pic too.

Then a quick clean up and slop of paint in the wheels wells and the front end is (essentially) done.

Then it's on to building up the 31 spline 8.8. My Mark Williams Engineering rear caps should be in by then so it should be full steam ahead.
 
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So, is it option 1 (16"):

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Or option 2 (17"):

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The 16's have tires on them that would pass MVI, the 17's do not. The 17's would allow me to upgrade to the Cobra brake package in the future (which I can see myself eventually doing), the 16's would not (not enough clearance). Both rims are in about the same shape cosmetically.

I tend to like the look of the 16's more, but I need to live with the 17's on there for a while before I can say I like one more than the other.

The 17's do change the "feel" of the car over the 16's. 16's feel period correct for the car, 17's seem a bit more "show-offish".

17's would give me a little better performance in autocross, but a little more harshness on the street.

After seeing them in person on a fox, 17's are also a big as I would ever dare go as far as looks are concerned. These are already dancing on the edge of "too big" for my tastes.

So, what do you think: 16's or 17's?

I think I'm leaning to the 17's for the option to upgrade the brakes in the future.....

:rolleyes:
 
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Hmmmm. Maybe paint the spokes darker grey on the 17 's , but not black . 17's fill the wheel well a bit better, won't flex as much on the twists . I agree 17 is as large as I'd go.
 
OK, so it seems another unexpected "win fall" is in my near future. Roughly double what it would take to bring the the car from it's present state to completely finished and painted. Completely unexpected surplus funds.

The wife has said I should put it into a separate account to do what I want and I should use it to finish the car. IOW; car fund.

Back off boys, she's taken!.

So I've been in contact with Jack Hidley at Maximum Motorsports.

I'm looking at using MM to finish the rear suspension for ease, time savings and known reliability.

The shopping list goes like so:

Standard torque arm
Panhard bar
Heavy duty adjustable lower control arms
Adjustable rear sway bar
Bumpsteer kit and tool

My Hidley said my 250 lb rear Mach 1 springs would be perfect for the car and balance with the 600 lb front mach 1 springs nicely.

You never know, maybe the 83 will actually make it on to the road (with plates and insurance) this spring.

I'm actually toying with making it a "mock 1"........
 
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