1983 GL, project: Cheap Thrills

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
Note: The first two dozen or so posts are pretty much cut and paste form my posts on another forum to catch up to as it sits today.

I know project cheap thrills has probably been used many times before, but it just seems to work for me. I can be a cheap *astard, but I want it done right too. Those two things don't usually go together unless you have patience, can compromise, are creative and are ready to jump on a good deal when it happens.

I'm a bit of an older gent, but am a gearhead from a long way back. Retirement is looming just around the corner and I need a project to keep me busy. Problem is I had way to many hanging around and downsizing was needed. So I've started selling off my projects, as hard as it is. My 62 TBird is already gone and my 85 Honda interceptor is next.

I was going to get rid of the 83 mustang as well (and almost did), but it seemed to me a good candidate to pull into my retirement stable as my 4 wheeled project.

I have several motorcycle projects on the go (VMax powered Yamaha venture, ratty FJ1200 on the books for a resto and my 85 V45 Interceptor), seen here this last summer in a pic before I started ripping the Venture apart:


But I need something with 4 wheels just in case because each year it gets harder and harder to ride very long. The old bod is busted up pretty good after 26 years in the military.

I've also owned the car since 1983 in one form or another which made another good reason to keep it.

It was first purchased for/with my girlfriend (who would eventually become wife #1) from a dealer in the Annapolis valley. It was a GL with 3.8 and the C5. It had a sunroof (OEM), it was red and it was a mustang, which is all the "options" she really wanted. Standard hubcaps and a black lower body band. Only thing power is the brakes and steering.

Someone (I'm guessing the dealer) had slapped a "Cobra" sticker on it in (what I'm guessing was) a marketing ploy, so the wife always thought it was a Cobra. It made her happy to think so, so I never corrected her. Pretty sure she knew it wasn't, but I don't think she cared. Later on, I carried on with the Cobra theme with 93 snake fender badges and a hatch cobra badge. Some cobra medallions from the 79-82 era found their way into the interior too.

That 3.8 was/is pretty much gutless and not exactly good on fuel either. But it was/is stone axe reliable and currently has 328,000 kms on it. We both drove it to high school and university, although I preferred my 1978 460/C6 (swapped in) Thunderbird most of the time. Through the years, I toyed on and off with trying to get the 3.8 to make more power (even had a custom intake and a 4BBL at one time), but it was a lost cause and I eventually just left it alone. I got some gains, but meager at best. Stone axe reliable was going to have to be good enough.

When we moved to Sask, the car went with us. It took us there actually. It survived -40C and +40C, although I was out in the middle of freezing cold in a snowstorm the first year to install a bloody block heater. It also survived a tornado out there!

While out west, the car began to show it's age and I had it painted. Mainly because the A pillars were rotting at the body lead in the upper pillar area, although there were also the typical problems at the pinch seams at the hatch and rear wheel wells.

It was also about this time the wife moved on to a 92 4 cyl mustang (and I thought the 3.8 was gutless! Sheesh!). She liked it, I though it was boring in both looks and performance.

After a decade of that hot/cold crap and what seemed like a yearly "plague" of some sort or another (IE: locusts, moquitos, newts, etc..Newts? seriously, newts?!?! WTF was up with that?!?), we came back east.

Shortly after, wife#1 became the "practice wife" and I moved out with the mustang in tow. I got the old mustang and my old 4 cyl S10 truck, she got the new car (to go with the new house and new daughter).

This also explains why I don't have any pictures of the mustang or the repaint prep I did: I got the car but apparently the ex decided she owned all the pictures of our previous life. I do have one pic of it from that time though. This is from about 10-12 years ago after the repaint:


Along the way it picked up an LX rear spoiler, some 10 hole rims and a console.

Shortly after, wife #2 entered the picture. She doesn't think much of fox mustangs to start with as a car to her is nothing more than an appliance and she doesn't understand liking "quirks". About the only model Mustang she would consider owning/driving is the 65 body style. She thought even less of this fox given my history with it (ex wife, honeymoon, etc, etc). But she's a good woman and understands that I like the car for what it is and doesn't give me a hard time about it hanging around or working on it. She knows I'm a tinkerer and I need something to keep me busy/occupied. She's happy I'd rather spend my spare time in the garage than out somewhere else...or drinking...or smoking....or anything else a bit on the side of "negative".

The car's engine bay has held a 302/C4 and a 351/C4 in it's lifetime. But when the 351 decided to blow out a window in the side of the block, I dropped in the old 3.8 that was still hanging around so I could at least move it under it's own power. By then it was mostly relegated to being a garage ornament.

When the call came to move to BC, we decided to keep our house in NS and I left the Mustang behind in the 4 bay garage next to my 62 TBird. Plan was to move back after a couple years, but we were moved to NL after BC. After 3 years there, it began to look like we were never going back, so we sold the house (two mortgages was dragging us down the hole of financial ruin) and I hauled the mustang and the TBird next door to my (now ex) neighbor's field where they would both sit for almost 2 years.

Sure enough, shortly after we gave up an sold the NS house we were posted back home and I went to check on my cars:


Yup, still there. Although the Mustang had broken out with cancer in all the same old places again.

Once we were established in the new house, I made plans to get rid of one car and fix the other. I was actually planning to get rid of both. As the TBird needed serious reconstruction/rust repair, I sold it off for peanuts. I almost gave the mustang away to friend of mine who had a 351 sitting on a stand. I was pretty much at a "just get rid of it" stage as retirement is on the horizon and we're starting into that downsizing phase.

But after a couple weeks of my bud putting off picking the car up (don't have space yet, don't have time, etc), I changed my mind and decided to just keep it.

Back up to my neighbors field i went and fought with it to get it running to drive it home, but I couldn't get fuel from the tank (lines were frozen or collapsed and the fuel pump diaphragm must have been gone as it wouldn't even suck from a gas filled bottle 3 inches away). I fought with it for a few hours in the field, but when ice cold rain started to fall I said "puck it" and called for a jerr-dan to haul it home. Turned out to be a good decision all around as I later found one of the steel the brake lines under the car rusted in half.

70 bucks later it was sitting in the driveway:


My buddy I almost gave it to dropped by to see it later that day and kicked himself all the way to his car for not grabbing it when I offered it to him. He couldn't believe it still had original floors and solid everywhere else except the rusty roof A pillars ( I later found the cowl had rot and teh drivers floor gone as a result). He could have taken it right up to when it was dropped in my driveway. But once it's on my blacktop; Hands off bubba!

The Mustang is going to be a pretty slow project, picking up parts and pieces as budget and good deals allow.

All my parts leeched away over the years, so it's back to square one in that dept. The first things I collected were a V8 throttle cable assembly, a Holley 4 BBL and an 85 front fascia (40 bucks for an 85, an 87-93 front and two 87-93 rear bumpers).

I have a preference for the looks of the 85/86 over the 83/84 nose. It's my favorite mustang front, with the 83/84 a very close second place.

The moldings are also in bad shape on my 83. Not just curled, but torn and split. I may just use 85 rub strips (with the 85 nose) to the front of the front wheel well and the later style with a later model rear bumper. The wheel well may make a good enough break for the molding differences, but I' still undecided on that one. Repop 85/86 side moldings are available, but they come a little dear in price and I don't want that "GT" rear molding since mine is not a GT.
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great white

Grumpy Old Fart
An 89 roller block showed up on Kijiji and sight unseen we settled on a price of 300 bucks.

The 89 engine was a lot more complete than i thought it would be, I was expecting not much more than a rebuild-able core:



A gent had pulled it out of an 89 Coupe he bought in Alberta, back halved the car and dropped a (IIRC) 347 in it. Nothing wrong with the 302 when he bought the car, just already had the 347 built. He oiled up the cylinders on the 302 and dropped it in his shed, intending to maybe build another 347 out of it. Life changes sometimes and he pretty much just wanted it gone.

Only things missing are the dizzy (no good to me anyways) the throttle body (no good to me) oil dipstick tube, flywheel and exhaust manifolds.Would have liked to have the dipstick tube, flywheel and manifolds, but for 300 bucks I'm not complaining!

I sold the 87-93 lx nose while I was on the trip for 30 bucks, so my fuel was mostly paid for and that lx nose is out of my space and on to help someone out.

Also picked up my 150 dollar Edelbrock rpm air gap manifold on the same trip:


That's gonna look some good on that roller block!

Durapspark dizzy is just up the road at a jobber, who has them in stock.

Started pulling the roller block apart and couldn't resist dropping the Edelbrock on the valley for a quick look:


Mmmmmmm yeah! That looks soooo right! It's the perfect look from a period in my life I wanted to recapture in this car. Back when things were simple and mechanical. Fond memories.

I can hear ACDC, VanHalen and Def Leppard from my youth playiing in the background already......

Since my daily driving vehicles are all auto's and the mustang is going to be a sunday fair weather fun car, I'm drumping the C5 and slipping in a T5.

But the T5 swap is going to be a bit of a "franken-swap".

Inside is 85 fox, a friend of mine gave me a clutch pedal assembly for a case of beer.

The transmission is a complete T5 from a 95 SN95 3.8 V6 that i found for 100 bucks.

Now this is where it gets a little "franken".

The transmission is coming with the 3.8 bellhousing and yup, it's the 5/8" odd longer one than the fox T5. It also means a 164 tooth flywheel.

Well the 89 302 came without a flywheel, so I'd have to buy one either way.

Since OEM fox parts are hard to source around here (gotta know someone who's got a stash somewhere) and shipping stuff like bellhousings and such is super expensive (not to mention exchange rates if ordering out of the states), I'm going to make do with the 3.8 housing.

Bolts up to the 302, no worries there.

EBay turns up a cheap cheap cheap 3.8 engine/trans spacer plate for a T5 so I grab it.

Now I need a 164 tooth flywheel with the 50 oz balance weighting. A dig around google turns up several sources and then comparison of specs leads me to order one from an 89 f-150 5.0 5 speed truck. Same year as my 302 so it will bolt to the crank, 164 tooth gear, and it is the 50 oz balance weight.

It also uses an 11" clutch disc instead of the fox 10.5 inch. I'll order that later on, but the 89 f-150 clutch has the same 10 spline and clutch spring fingers, so I should be good there. Littel more flywheel weight might mean a little slower to climb RPMs, but it will also mean more flywheel effect. Good for a street driver.

The shifter will set back in the car about 1/2-5/8", but that's no big deal. My reach is a little short so a shifter a little closer is no big deal.

A little sheet metal trimming will handle any other problems. I'm redoing all the upholstery anyways so making it neat will just be a part of that.

So that's the meat of the C5/T5 swap sorted out. I'll still need to get things like pilot bearings, bolts, etc, possibly a starter and maybe deal with the drive shaft length, but that's all just part of the game when keeping hte costs down.

It also sets me up to swap in a 99+ 3.8 t5 with the 300 ft/lb rating and I won't have to pay the premium everybody seems to want for a "V8 T5". 265 will do just fine for now thank-you-very-much.

All said an done, the T5 swap should only cost me just a bit over 200 bucks (little more if you count the case of beer, of which I'll probably end up drinking a couple anyways!) if I don't have to chop the driveshaft.

I wanted to get rid of both the air pump and the AC compressor on the 89. Useless in the 83 as the car is fairly "base" and it's going to stay that way.

What's that you say? They offer an AC delete kit that relocates the PS pump? I'll order one up thank you, how much will that be?

WHAT?!?! 120 bucks shipped?!?!?

No way bro! I paid less for my T5!

So a little wrenching, fitting and friggin around gets me to where I want to be without spending a dime:



I have a little work to do on the mill with a couple brackets and spacers, a touch of shaving on the big main bracket, relocate one bolt hole for the pump to bracket mount and then rework the big steel front bracket to support the bottom of the big pump bracket.

But that's just time, not money. Time I have lots of.

And that's pretty much where it sits today. I'm pretty pleased as it looks like the car is going to get a roller block 302 and T5 conversion done for right around a grand, give or take a little bit.

Then it's on to brakes, suspension and body work.

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
well, I've got everything I need to drop the 302 and T5 in the car. Clutch and pressure plate were the last pieces. Came as a kit with pilot bearing, throwout bearing and an alignment tool

All I'm missing is the 1985 5.0 HO duraspark distributor.

I found rock auto can bring it in cheaper than the local Napa by about 70-85 bucks CAD.

I ordered my clutch through rockauto as they stated there were supposed to be no additional charges (IE: taxes, duties, brokerage, etc). If the clutch gets here extra charge free, I'll probably order the distr from them also. 170 bucks plus tax from Napa, 70 bucks plus 16 bucks shipping (+HST) from RA.

Some of my boys are going on "HP this" and "brand name that" and that I'm wasting money on some generic parts. But right now I just want it together and running. The expensive bits will come later down the road once it's a runner and I can at least have a little fu with it before I get too much money sunk into it.

Looked a little closer at the floors today. I though the drivers side was just surface rust, but it's gone. Look right through the floor gone. Apparently there is a leak somewhere (I'm hoping no the cowl plenum) that has kept the carpet soaked these last two years outside. I'm sort of hoping it was the pile of wet tree junk I pulled out of the plenum around the air bell letting water wick up and drip in.

I despise rust repair, but at leat it's just the floor. It's not into the inner rocker or the door pillar. The rest of the floor pan is rock solid, still has the orignal paint even.

I'm not driving this year anyways, so I'll just cut the cancerous parts out, give them a coat of paint to stop further rust and deal with the floor hole later down the road. I'll have to make sure I find where the water is getting in and at least plug it up somehow.

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
so now I have a distributor and starter coming from rockauto and a front cover and mechanical pump eccentric from a private seller.

I also have a set of BBK longtubes and BBK H pipe on the way from a member here on the board.

Looks like I've got the fuel injection stuff sold to a local guy.

Out tonight to pick up a used engine stand. It's a "powerfist" (princess auto) a guy has local for 40 bucks. My ex wife decided I didn't need to come back and pick up my old one when we split about 10 years ago.

Meh, I can live with 40 bucks for an engine stand. i can unload it for hte same amount after I'm done with it if I want (prob keep it though, I'm a tool hoarder). I mostly want the stand just so I can get the 89 engine off the floor and move it around while I work on it, clean it and give it a fresh shot of Ford corporate blue before dropping it in the 83...

great white

Grumpy Old Fart

There's just something soooooo right about an engine on a stand in the garage. Just feels right and comforting to walk out and see it there. Like coming home....

And.....I've officially hit the nickle and dime phase.

I just sourced the ARP bolts for the flywheel and the pressure plate and spent almost as much as I did for the T5. Most of the cost was shipping costs to Canada and exchange, sourcing them locally meant paying even more than bringing them out of the states. Canada is definitely NOT a "car guy" friendly country. Never was. Too expensive to do anything automotive here, even just repairs.

Going with OEM ford stuff was priced just ridiculous. 14 bucks a bolt for the flywheel to crank bolts alone! NO THANK YOU!

But now I at least have enough to bolt it together and get it into the car.

It will be open exhaust after the H pipe and I'll still need a fuel pump and bend up some lines, but it will be (for the most part) together.

That's an important thing for me as you never know when they are going to move you in the military. All my cars have to at least be able to power themselves on to a car carrier or they don't move them....

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
So I've got hte parts list sorted out for the T5 swap:

1995 Mustang 3.8 T5 transmission, complete ($100, local purchase)
1989 F150 5.0 5 speed flywheel, 164 tooth, new (80 bucks, eBay)
1989 F150 5.0 5 Speed clutch and pressure plate kit, new (130 bucks, rockauto)
1995 Mustang 3.8 T5 clutch release bearing, new (25 bucks, rockauto) - because the one in the F150 kit is hydraulic, not cable.
1985 Mustang Clutch pedal and quadrant with switches - used (100 bucks, ebay)
Clutch cable, Ford Racing, Teflon lined, new (25 bucks, ebay)
ARP flywheel bolts, new (15 bucks, ebay)
ARP Pressure plate bolts,new (20 bucks, ebay)

Had to chuck in a replacement mini-starter too. That also came from rockauto and was around 40 bucks IIRC.

So that's all in for about 350 bucks.

Not bad for a C5 auto to WC T5 transmission. Plus, I get the 11" clutch to boot!

I've also discovered that rockauto shipments are probably the cheapest shipping I've ever found out of the States, has no "brokerage" fees and is about the fastest shipping I've had yet (outside of paying for overnight foolishness).

I'm never buying another part from a Canadian distributor ever again! Half the price at least on most parts (brand names instead of the generic crap they try to flog off on you here at twice the price) and delivery to my door. I just have to wait a couple days.

I'm all for supporting Canadian business, but when it's obvious they are adding a mark up what you would pay retail for brand names in the states, adding exchange, passing on the shipping costs to the buyer and still selling you the cheaper generic parts instead of the brand names to make even more profit, they can go to hell. That's just a cash grab and sticking it to the consumer. I feel no loyalty to bastards like that. Give it to me for a fair price while making a reasonable profit and we're do business.

Until then: Rockauto for me!

great white

Grumpy Old Fart

Found where the water was getting in that rotted out the drivers floor panel.

I was hoping it was a split bead of seam sealer or perhaps where some leaves had piled up around the air bell in the cowl plenum and was wicking water up over the bell mouth.

And I was sort of right on both counts: there is a split seam sealer bead, but the big P-off is the cowl plenum floor is rotted out around the air bell right where those F'n leaves and tree crap had parked!

Now I have to do my most hated of tasks: rust repair.

and this is probably the worst place it could possibly be: the cowl.

I'll have to remove the fenders, hood, windshield and drill out a plethora of spot welds to remove the upper cowl just to get to it. And Gawd knows what else I will find down there once the upper cowl is off.

What a major PITA!

at least the windshield is already cracked so no big loss there.

But now I'll have to throw the drivetrain in and the car will be filling my one car garage all summer. I'll have to cram it into the back and fight for working space so I can still get my two motorcycles in there. Not to mention there will be no space at all for anything else I need to do. The garage is my only workspace for everything from metal working to carpentry.

GGGgrrrrrrrrrr..........I'm soooo PO'd!

All from sitting in a freaking field for a year and a half.........Click the image to open in full size.

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
Well, with the rusted cowl, I need to find some way of keeping the weather off it. I don't have room in the garage as it's a one car garage and full of motorcycles right now.

So I pulled out and old trailer cover we used to use on our 35 foot travel trailer before the wind in Nl tore it all the rat crap.

Started sewing and cutting, got to this point so far:




Not too shabby. Tomorrow I'll hem a pocket around the bottom and then thread a spool of bungee cord material I have through it. A couple tabs in the hem so I can run a couple cords underneath to ensure the wind can't rip it of and it's a done deal.

The trailer material is all from the trailer roof. That was the 4 layer material that was waterproof and breathable so it should do just fine in this application.

I may be able to get it in the garage for winter, but I'm still working that one out. It's either going to be very tight in there or I may store my bikes at the mother inlaw's (about 1.5 hrs away by highway).

I'm not sure if I can be that far away from my bikes for that long though....

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
Parts continue to accumulate or on their way in shipping.

Used hurst shifter:


80 bucks, bought off the classifieds on another site from a guy in Whitby.

Ordered up a couple shifter balls:



I bought both because I couldn't make up my mind one way or the other. I got them super cheap because they are in an uncommon thread size for modern cars. No problem for me, I'll just spin up a couple brass or aluminum adapters on the lathe and problem solved. I'll have to make one to adapt a boot to the shifter, so it's work I'd be doing anyways. I've got lots of scrap lying around that will work just fine for making adapters.

I've got some baby soft black deerskin left over from another project, so I'll sew up a shifter boot from that. I'll reuse my automatic console plate by cutting it wider and mounting the shifter boot to it. I can't decide between using gray thread or red thread to sew the boot. The car is staying red, but the interior is going to be gray (currently 20 different shades of red). Have to think on that one a little more, but I'm leaning towards gray.

Now, because the black shifter has a running pony on it, I felt a little off about having "Cobra" emblems everywhere else on the car. It was also kind of time to shed the Cobra stuff. That's from a different period in my life and it more or less ended when my first marriage did. The car isn't a "real" cobra anyways.

So I ordered up some tri-color ponies on the fenders:


And a tri-color dash pony from a 91 for the passenger side dash bezel:


Wasn't sure what to do with the drivers side hatch once the "Cobra" is off, but I think it's going to be this:


You can get those on ebay for a couple bucks. I grabbed the mustang pic off the net and Photochopped it on.

I'm also going to need a hood scoop for clearance with the carb spacer I am planning. There's also not going to be much room to run ducting to the air cleaner with the strut tower braces I've got planned and other assorted what nots. So I've got a local fiberglass guy building this hood scoop from a mold off an original 82 scoop:


Which I'll will widen to match the hood profile better:


The scoop will be functional and I'll seal the aircleaner to the bottom of the hood. That will give me the clearance to run a taller spacer and it will be gulping cold fresh air.

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
More goodies showed up yesterday.

80 buck hurst shifter:


60 buck window regs:


Shifter is used, bought it off a guy in Ontario and a friend of mine out there picked it up and mailed it to me. I needed a shifter because my 1995 T5 came without one. I was thinking I was going to be stuck with buying one of those 60 dollar ebay shifters and fixing it's "issues" myself. When this one popped up on a Canadian mustang site for 100 bucks, I was able to grab it for 80. New prices for this shifter seem to be in the 200-300 USD range, used seems to be in the 10-200 USD range. So I'm good with 80 bucks CAD!

The regs were an ebay grab from another place in Ontario. shipping brought them close to 100, but they work fine (motors are still strong and fast) and will give me power windows in my non AC car. A little clean up and paint and they'll be good as new. Better actually, since they won't rust.

I wanted to stay pretty basic in this car, but I either need AC or power windows from a "basic comfort" standpoint.

Power windows are easier, simpler, less likely to have issues and are FAR less expensive than a retrofitted old AC system, so power windows it is. Manual reg holes in the door panels will disappear when they get re-upholstered.

Switches are going to be located in the center console in easy reach of driver and passenger, so I only need two instead of the driver master and passenger slave. That will also minimize the wiring: power to the console and then only 2 wires out to each door. Additionally, building my own harness give me the freedom to build it the way I want with things like proper weatherpak connectors in the doors.

Door gap boots I can grab from anything in the scrap yard.

I've ordered a set of switches from an 87 to work into the console. That was an ebay 15 buck grab.

So, I should have power windows built the way I want for around 90 bucks CAD and a little bit of my own labor. I'm good with that!

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
Got the drivers side BBK longtube headers in.

Unfortunately, the SN95 bellhousing on the T5 clocks the shift fork too low and it is right square in the middle of the #6 primary. I had to dimple the damned thing to almost half it's cross section to get sufficient clearance to operate the shift fork and a littel stand off distance for heat.

I'll probably end up pulling that side back off, slicing that portion of the header tube out and welding in a new section that places that portion of the tube about 1-2" higher while trying to maintain the same primary pipe length. Even if it has a slightly longer length, that's better than the tube dimpled to half it's cross section. I dimpled it so badly since I'm just doing initial mock up fit.

They were a tight fit all the way around on both sides. A stock 302/t5 might have gone in, but I'm willing to bet it still would have run into steering column issues at least. Even without the dimple work on the #6 primary, I still had to lightly dimple the #7/8 primaries to get it to clear the steering shaft.

There goes the nice chrome finish. Not even run once....

I'll probably pull them off again in a couple years once the header paint blows off the dimpled and welded sections (and my bank account recovers) and just have them dipped and ceramic coated.

I also had to take the porta power to the BBK H-Pipe to widen it and heat/bend the two hangers to get it to fit up to the collectors.

Gawd, I despise exhaust work. It never goes easy.....

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
Well, the 3.8/C5 driveshaft is now confirmed to NOT work with the 302/T5 combination.

It's too long. When I measured (Little foggy on exact number) it was 47.5"

Standard fox one is supposedly 45.5"

Quick trip to the local yard and I nicked a shaft off a 2002 v6. 45.5", center to center.

Grabbed a transmission tunnel shifter rubber seal while I was there.

Collected up my 95 SN95 spindles and called it a day.

It's almost a runner and capable of moving under it's own power....

Annnnd.....another snag.

The SN95 shaft I grabbed is the right length, but came from an automatic car.

Spline count is good and slides right on, but the OD of the seal surface is too large and hits the tail housing inside the tail piece so it won't slide all the way home.

Went to swap my C5 yoke on (which fits the T5 just fine), but turns out the SN95 shaft u joint yokes are wider than the c5 yoke. U joint caps are the same, just the u joint itself is wider.

Just can't freakin win.....back to the yard tomorrow to grab the shaft and yoke out of the 95 T5 car that was right beside the auto I got the shaft from.

The transmission in my fox is a 95 T5, so it should fit. Unless the man upstairs isn't done having fun messing with me yet that is.....

Picked up the 95 V6/T5 driveshaft from the yard. Just straight exchange.

Slipped right into my 83 slick as snot.

One more piece of the puzzle in place.

great white

Grumpy Old Fart
Got the aero-mustang GT parts home today and laid them out.


I'm missing the passenger front fender extention and the 1/4 panel lower extention!

Called the gent and he's going to look for them.

I should have laid it all out and freakin checked before i left. But if he doesnt have them, all it would of meant is knocking a few bucks off. Can't make hm sell what he don't got either..

The nose piece is rough. I mean really rough. He told me sone kid was trying to do body work to it and it shows. The lower scoop is cut to rat**** (no idea why, makes no sense what was done to it), it looks like he tried to sand it with an angle grinder (!) and it's all covered in some kind of bedliner material that is a biatch to remove (paint stipper and gasket remover is getting the job done though). Couple tears too, but those are in the parts i'm going to be cutting away so the dont really matter. So far i've found black, red, white and a brandy wine color paint on the nose piece and some kind of rattlecan spray primer. Sheesh.

Its all stuff i can fix, but its just one more pita to deal with.

Well, i guess i can console myself with the pieces i did get for 120 bucks. Assuming you can even find these body pieces (fat chance in atlantic canada), you'de pay a fair sight more than 120 bucks for them.

I'll just have to trade my "sweat equity" for the lower buy in price of...ahem...less than pristine parts....

Theres no free lunch......