Picked up a 2010 Hardtop GT

Throttle response is one of those tuneable parameters and it makes a noticeable difference.

This guy is talking about stock engines of the Coyote generation. Stock air intake and all.

In your specific case, switching to the JLT series 3 CAI on your 3 valve 4.6, no longer stock after that, necessarily requires a tune.
The JLT allows way too much air in the engine that your stock tune will not be able to deal with, resulting in check engine lights.

The 4.6 generation left more performance on the table than the latest 5.0’s.
That JLT, with pulleys, and a good 91 octane tune will easily get you an extra 20 to 30 hp on top of the added performance and throttle response the video talks about.

Did you take note of the name he mentions at the very beginning of the video?
John Lund was the name.
Lund is widely acknowledged as likely the best Mustang tuner of all.

Not to muddy the waters for you but if you are going to go the route of ordering a preloaded tuner with a canned tune, Lund is very much worth checking out.
He likely trained some of those guys at Bama.
I believe Lund uses SCT tuners but loaded with his custom tunes.
 
Picked up JLT Series 3 CAI, along with a set of GT500 springs. SCT X4 tuner should arrive tomorrow, or next day via FedEx, and MRBP cat back exhaust shipping via FedEx from CJ Pony Parts today. Lots to work away at. Spring cannot come soon enough.
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Hmm, not just trying to spend more of your money but I’d wait to install those springs until you have new struts and shocks to go with them. I made a similar change to mine a few years ago without struts and saw minimal change. I finally bit the bullet and bought the new bilstein shocks and struts- and got a whole different car to drive.
 
Hmm, not just trying to spend more of your money but I’d wait to install those springs until you have new struts and shocks to go with them. I made a similar change to mine a few years ago without struts and saw minimal change. I finally bit the bullet and bought the new bilstein shocks and struts- and got a whole different car to drive.
Totally agree. I only drove the car about 150 kms from the time I got it until it was parked for the winter. I want to get a good feel for how the shocks/struts are on it now before making any changes. If I am going to change the springs, will likely do the shocks/struts at the same time.
 
Totally agree. I only drove the car about 150 kms from the time I got it until it was parked for the winter. I want to get a good feel for how the shocks/struts are on it now before making any changes. If I am going to change the springs, will likely do the shocks/struts at the same time.

Definitely plus 1 on what Gerry (05 gt 5spd) said. Dampers at same time as springs.
And, I can save you some time on the want to get a good feel for how your dampers work now part.
You don’t need to.
It’s not good. You just don’t know it yet because you don’t know how much better it can get.

Brings me to this point.
From picture, it looks like those springs are used, so am hoping you got them for nothing.
Because they are only marginally, if at all, better than what you have on now.
It’s entirely possible you won’t even notice a difference.
Yah, they’re rated as being stiffer than GT springs but they are still OEM hardware, so designed to give forgiving ride for vast majority of people to enjoy driving the car.
They will not markedly improve your car’s handling. Car will still have body roll because still riding on high centre of gravity.
The expression changing 4 quarters for a dollar comes to mind.
Ever notice the stock height of those S197 cars, GT500 included?
Enough room in those wheel wells to put snow chains on. Almost 4x4 look.

The big, noticeable and worthwhile difference is in lower aftermarket springs that lower the car between 1 to 1.5 inches.
These are also stiffer but also drop the centre of gravity. That’s where you get noticeable and enjoyable gains.

Not to make you spend more money, but rather spend more efficiently.
Some suggested springs for S197 are
Eibach Pro kit springs, lower 1.25 front and 1.5 rear.
Or Ford Racing “K” springs, exact same thing as Eibach Pro kit, made by Eibach for Ford Racing.
Or Ford Racing “P” springs, also made by Eibach for Ford Racing but drop the car 1 inch all around.

Steeda also make several springs for this car that have a loyal following.
Just read the specs of each.
The Sportline are the softer version for a more compliant ride but still stiffer than OE, all the way up to race spec springs, which you could find to be stiff.

All of these would pair well with the Bilstein dampers that Gerry mentioned.

A great compliment to the above would be sway bars
Eibach, Ford Racing, BMR, Steeda, take your pick.

And, since you’ve already mentioned wheel hop, if you want to address the wheel hop start now to plan on getting aftermarket rear lower control arms.
I’m a big fan of BMR for these but there are people who swear by Steeda.
If you lower the car, include rear LCA relocation brackets to address the wheel hop.

There was a recent thread that spent a lot of ink on wheel hop, rear LCA’s and relocation brackets.
I invite you to read that for more info on wheel hop and relocation brackets.
I’ll see if I can post the link bellow.
 
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Definitely plus 1 on what Gerry (05 gt 5spd) said. Dampers at same time as springs.
And, I can save you some time on the want to get a good feel for how your dampers work now part.
You don’t need to.
It’s not good. You just don’t know it yet because you don’t know how much better it can get.

Brings me to this point.
From picture, it looks like those springs are used, so am hoping you got them for nothing.
Because they are only marginally, if at all, better than what you have on now.
It’s entirely possible you won’t even notice a difference.
Yah, they’re rated as being stiffer than GT springs but they are still OEM hardware, so designed to give forgiving ride for vast majority of people to enjoy driving the car.
They will not markedly improve your car’s handling. Car will still have body roll because still riding on high centre of gravity.
The expression changing 4 quarters for a dollar comes to mind.
Ever notice the stock height of those S197 cars, GT500 included?
Enough room in those wheel wells to put snow chains on. Almost 4x4 look.

The big, noticeable and worthwhile difference is in lower aftermarket springs that lower the car between 1 to 1.5 inches.
These are also stiffer but also drop the centre of gravity. That’s where you get noticeable and enjoyable gains.

Not to make you spend more money, but rather spend more efficiently.
Some suggested springs for S197 are
Eibach Pro kit springs, lower 1.25 front and 1.5 rear.
Or Ford Racing “K” springs, exact same thing as Eibach Pro kit, made by Eibach for Ford Racing.
Or Ford Racing “P” springs, also made by Eibach for Ford Racing but drop the car 1 inch all around.

Steeda also make several springs for this car that have a loyal following.
Just read the specs of each.
The Sportline are the softer version for a more compliant ride but still stiffer than OE, all the way up to race spec springs, which you could find to be stiff.

All of these would pair well with the Bilstein dampers that Gerry mentioned.

A great compliment to the above would be sway bars
Eibach, Ford Racing, BMR, Steeda, take your pick.

And, since you’ve already mentioned wheel hop, if you want to address the wheel hop start now to plan on getting aftermarket rear lower control arms.
I’m a big fan of BMR for these but there are people who swear by Steeda.
If you lower the car, include rear LCA relocation brackets to address the wheel hop.

There was a recent thread that spent a lot of ink on wheel hop, rear LCA’s and relocation brackets.
I invite you to read that for more info on wheel hop and relocation brackets.
I’ll see if I can post the link bellow.
Thanks very much for some great information. This is an area where I have little knowledge, so I appreciate someone with the knowledge and experience taking the time to explain the various mods in detail. I was given the GT500 springs, and going forward will definitely look into the mod routes you have suggested. I look forward to getting the JLT series 3 CAI installed, but have to do the tune first, and have ordered a firewall plug for when the factory sound tube is removed. Unfortunately, I will not likely get to roadtest the setup until Spring.
 
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