What did you do to your mustang today

Marc I never got a code on startup. She ran like normal. Mind you I didn’t drive it. Just idled it for like 5 minutes to make sure everything appeared ok. She idled down to what appeared to be normal after a few minutes. I will know more after I take it out on the road I guess. From what I had read though because it is only 5mm bigger then stock the computer is smart enough to adjust for it. I had the tps that came with it as well so that maybe helped?
 
Coming out of hibernation tonight. Cant wait to wake the neighbors! Suspension swap booked for May 6th and would have been ready for action on the planned spring run. Will try to get some pics of the setup.

Questions to come regarding MM caster camber plates. Looking at -1.7 front & -1.8 rear as a start. It's been a long winter and I think I'm due for some different physical distancing!?
 
I would suggest 1.5 negative camber is a decent starting point for front camber.
1.7 a bit aggressive for a car that does not get tracked.
And you could track 1.5 no issues too.
1.7 is pretty aggressive for front.

Also, so your tires wear decently you may want to consider a slight tow in of about 0.3 to 0.5 each side.
If you go dead center 0.0 or slight tow out you’re going to wear the insides of the front tires very prematurely.

Since your car is a solid rear axle car, there is no adjustments to the rear.
There are no cc plates or parts for the rear.
Only adjustments would be if you bought adjustable control arms and Panhard bar.
Those only control pinion angle and center axle from side to side.
No affect on rear camber.
 
Thanks Marc. Have solid control arms and adj panhard on back. Adjustable (3 bolt hole) LCA relocation brackets .going middle position and see from there.

Will be ready for a spirited run with other interested drivers once we get to the bottom of the christmas tree for green!
 
pei_guy said:
Coming out of hibernation tonight. Cant wait to wake the neighbors! Suspension swap booked for May 6th and would have been ready for action on the planned spring run. Will try to get some pics of the setup.

Questions to come regarding MM caster camber plates. Looking at -1.7 front & -1.8 rear as a start. It's been a long winter and I think I'm due for some different physical distancing!?
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I'll have to check my settings on front, I recall 1.5 neg. I have noticed inside edge wear. Works really good in the turns, but it's a trade off.
 
pei_guy said:
Thanks Marc. Have solid control arms and adj panhard on back. Adjustable (3 bolt hole) LCA relocation brackets .going middle position and see from there.

Will be ready for a spirited run with other interested drivers once we get to the bottom of the christmas tree for green!
Click to expand...

Those will all make noticeable difference.
You are going to have the Ha Ha moment.
Are you not doing springs, dampers and sway bars too?
You won’t recognize the car.
You will love it, and wonder how you got along without it.

I’m up for spirited drive down in Mexico anytime. ?

For relocation brackets, make sure back end of control arm is lower than front on level floor.
If near level, go to third hole right away.
Level control arm can’t effectively put weight on axle.
I think you did Eibach. They drop rear a half inch more than my setup.
I’m already at middle hole.
Be open to going third hole right away.
 
67 AGAIN said:
Those will all make noticeable difference.
You are going to have the Ha Ha moment.
Are you not doing springs, dampers and sway bars too?
You won’t recognize the car.
You will love it, and wonder how you got along without it.

I’m up for spirited drive down in Mexico anytime. ?

For relocation brackets, make sure back end of control arm is lower than front on level floor.
If near level, go to third hole right away.
Level control arm can’t effectively put weight on axle.
I think you did Eibach. They drop rear a half inch more than my setup.
I’m already at middle hole.
Be open to going third hole right away.
Click to expand...
Thanks Marc.
Going with Eibach ft and rear sway bars, dampers and sport springs with Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. Indicating 1" drop front and 1.5" rear. BMR fixed LCAs, panhard bar & brace & relocation brackets. Staying with stock UCA for now and get a feel for the ride setup.

Got a good shop and a couple of wrench heads who play after work on older Chevy stuff. They hold their noses working on a Ford but fans of displacement and horsepower. Alignment outsourced to and exotic motorsport shop.think I'm in safe hands!
 
Sounds like you are in good hands.
Get ready for major difference in how your car feels and handles.
Those numbers are the drop that the Eibach Pro kit springs provide, which is what I suspected.
My drop is 1 inch all around. So you will be half inch lower in back.

Unless you are looking for tenths on your 1/4 mile ET’s, UCA not necessary.
UCA’s are renowned for added NVH.
Significantly more NVH than what this setup will produce.
And not significant added benefit on road course.
Panhard gives more benefit on road course to keep axle centred under lateral loads.
 
67 AGAIN said:
Sounds like you are in good hands.
Get ready for major difference in how your car feels and handles.
Those numbers are the drop that the Eibach Pro kit springs provide, which is what I suspected.
My drop is 1 inch all around. So you will be half inch lower in back.

Unless you are looking for tenths on your 1/4 mile ET’s, UCA not necessary.
UCA’s are renowned for added NVH.
Significantly more NVH than what this setup will produce.
And not significant added benefit on road course.
Panhard gives more benefit on road course to keep axle centred under lateral loads.
Click to expand...
Thanks again, Marc. Great advice and recommendations!
 
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