What did you do to your mustang today

67 AGAIN;n27307 said:
Sorry for responding late pei-guy. I only get on here about once a week.
You are on right track with your choices.

The Eibach kit is a quality kit. The pro springs drop the S197 about 1.5 inch in the back and about 1.25 in front.
That is fairly aggressive and will fill that fender gap nicely. I would not go any lower as per hotobbad's counsel.
Eibach manufactures the springs for Ford Performance.
The FP equivalent to the pro springs is the M-5300-K springs. Simply known as the K springs, a popular choice also.
Oddly enough, although Eibach does not offer a less aggressive spring, meaning less drop, Ford Performance does.
They offer the M-5300-P springs. Known as the P springs, they lower the car 1 inch at all four corners.
Still a huge performance upgrade but leaves a little room for rough maritime roads(potholes and frost heaves), going over speed bumps or getting onto ferries or trailers, or entering steep driveways. For a lot of these reasons, rough roads and trailering, I use the P springs.
If you're interested in the P springs, pair them up with the Bilstein HD shocks and struts and you will love the combination.
Otherwise, nothing wrong with that Eibach kit as complete entity.
The Eibach sway bars are, IMHO, the best. I have them.

BMR adj. Panhard, Great choice. That's the one I have.

For Lower control arms and relocation brackets, I would stick with BMR on these parts.

Reasons: for the lower control arms, the Ford GT 500 is still a stamped steel, open face unit with a stiffer rubber bushing only. It's a stock control arm with a slightly stiffer bushing only. No structural or design improvement.
It does not use polyurethane bushings which resist compression more than any rubber and will give more performance improvement for the same or les money.
In contrast, the BMR control arms are fully boxed, square tubing, units which are stiffer and stronger than stamped steel.
BMR uses polyurethane bushings.
BMR makes two identical looking control arms differentiated only by the thickness of the steel used in the construction.
Both will be better than the Ford piece IMO. The lighter gage one is less money than the heavier gage one.
Up to you to decide which you want when you order.

Relocation brackets: The BMR brackets are the best built and use better anchoring points and bolts to you axle.
In fact, they use an additional bolt over the competition such as Steeda, Ford, and so on.
Mat Dasilva (of Dasilva Racing) used several brand son his car and all twisted on him until he hit on BMR.
BMR are the only ones that have held up on his 2005 manual GT quarter mile race car.

Bump stops: if you are referring to small bump stop on the axle to prevent hitting the chassis, don't bother.
You will likely never load your car enough for axle to hit chassis. You would need four adults and trunk loaded to get to that range.
My axle has never hit my chassis. Put money elsewhere.

Bump steer kit: I don't think you need this either.
I don't have one and don't feel I need one.
My understanding is this becomes more relevant, the lower you go.
I have 1 inch drop and don't feel any twitch in front end when I hit bumps.
Whether you go 1 inch or 1.25 inch, I don't think it will make a difference.
For example, Eibach make Sportline springs that drop car almost 2 inches.
If you had that, maybe an issue, but then you would have trouble on all Maritime roads.
This is really only a show or dedicated track car drop.

Since you are debating caster-camber plates or the GT500 strut mounts, I will make it easy for you.
Caster-camber plates every time, all the time.
Reason: The GT500 mount is only a marginal improvement over the stock mount with, again, stiffer rubber only.
Otherwise it is the same piece as stock.
You have to pay for the GT500 mount.
Take that money and put it towards caster-camber plates.
For only slightly more money, you get total alignment capability.
Plus you replace the rubber bushing mount with a steel ball bearing type mount that will eliminate the deflection of the strut in turns.
Your car will benefit from razor sharp turn in response over stock.
I researched caster-camber plates in 2012.
I went with the Maximum Motorsports cc plates. Love them.
Easy to use for alignment. As advertised.

The Steeda strut brace will fit with the Maximum Motorsports caster-camber plates.

Leaving upper control arm stock. Good call. You do not need to swap this part. Use money for caster-camber plates instead.
Reason: It is mounted center of chassis and very short, only a third the length of lower control arms.
It has a lot less torque or leverage forces acting on it.
Also, changing this part can lead to increase noise and vibration due to being mounted on the rear end housing.

What are you missing? Nothing. You will absolutely love your car if you follow this recipe.
Your 5.0 will get better traction for spirited acceleration and you will not believe how much better it will steer and handle over stock.
You will have a "Ha Haa!" moment.

Optional only: You can add to the chassis strength at the point where the Panhard attaches to the chassis.
That's on the passenger side of the car. Ford knew this to be a potentially week part of the chassis and added a brace at the factory to reinforce this area. The brace ties the passenger side Panhard anchor point to the driver side of the chassis with a brace.
Whereas you have a convertible, you can improve this a bit more to reduce flex by swapping out this factory brace, which is non boxed, stamped steel with a stronger boxed or tubular unit.
I use the Steeda tubular Panhard brace for this. It is lightweight chromoly and the driver side attachment point is cleverly boxed for added strength.
BMR makes a boxed version but it is slightly bulkier and not chromoly, and driver side attachment point is not boxed like the Steeda.
Either one will be better than factory.
You will see the difference when you hold both pieces in your hands.

That's it. Happy modding.

Tks for the feedback! Had overlooked the Panhard brace... My shop guy is trying to talk me into going with subframe connectors to firm up the body flex on the convertible. Not so sure how I feel about that suppose. I might as well break the bank if I'm going to put a sizable dent in it!! Might need to tackle this in a couple of phases. No weddings to cover this summer coming but also want to avoid dividing assets at the same time!
 
A lot fo this is trying to figure out where you want to be when done.
Driving style and uses etc. If you go to far it becomes hard core,
fun to drive but not very comfy, fine line. My 08 was getting close to go kart lol
But I had adjustable shocks and had set real firm.

Tighten it up and still nice drive can be reasonable dollars with hug improvements.
You can do it in sections, but much easier when its all apart :)
 
thanks Marc, some great info here.. i would like to do the 1" drop this spring. looks like i'll have to change my strut brace as my SR covers the full top and would interfere with the cc plates i would need to get.

strut brace.jpg
 
Fun GT;n27326 said:
Great write up and info. .................tks Marc ...

Always wondered where to go or start, what works and not with the under and hidden parts of our rides, got all the answers here !!

Fully agree, Roger. Marc is the "suspension whisperer" for MM?! Glad to have someone onside so knowledge and willing to share advice!
 
pei_guy;n27325 said:
Tks for the feedback! Had overlooked the Panhard brace... My shop guy is trying to talk me into going with subframe connectors to firm up the body flex on the convertible. Not so sure how I feel about that suppose. I might as well break the bank if I'm going to put a sizable dent in it!! Might need to tackle this in a couple of phases. No weddings to cover this summer coming but also want to avoid dividing assets at the same time!

I don't have subframe connectors.
They are most popular in the quarter mile racing crowd with big power to reduce chassis flex on acceleration.
They require welding to the chassis.
They will stiffen things up. They add a bit of weight too.
They can be done anytime.
Them alone will not yield noticeable improvements in steering, handing or body roll.
Suspension does that.
They would only complement suspension upgrades after they are done.
My suggestion is do some or all suspension bits mentioned above.
Try that first and if you still feel you need to reduce body flex, then go for SFC's.
If I quote from what you said at the start "for a vert mostly casual & some spirited driving" you will have more than enough with the suspension bits alone.
You will not need the SCF's. That's money you can save.

Regards
 
Fun GT;n27326 said:
Great write up and info. .................tks Marc ...

Always wondered where to go or start, what works and not with the under and hidden parts of our rides, got all the answers here !!

You're welcome Roger and others.
I'm glad I can help anybody on here.
I like talking about this stuff.
 
Ohtobbad;n27330 said:
A lot fo this is trying to figure out where you want to be when done.
Driving style and uses etc. If you go to far it becomes hard core,
fun to drive but not very comfy, fine line. My 08 was getting close to go kart lol
But I had adjustable shocks and had set real firm.

Tighten it up and still nice drive can be reasonable dollars with hug improvements.
You can do it in sections, but much easier when its all apart :)

On this point, I will elaborate a bit on the transformation of my Mustang.
I would not describe it as a go kart.

I would rather say it has confident, sharp and responsive handling but without the stiff suspension of a go kart.
I dare suggest the difference between my experience and Trevor's is my shocks are not as stiff.
The Bilsteins I have are non adjustable but are engineered for lowered cars.
Meaning the valving is nicely matched the compression-rebound rhythm of shorter springs.
Bilstein is the premier shock manufacturer for what the industry widely acknowledges as the world's best handling cars.
Mercedes Benz, BMW, Porsche, and so on...
In fact, in 2013 and 2014, if you bought a 662hp GT500 from Ford and took the optional track pack, Ford upgraded the shocks in that package to Bilsteins.

I've described it like this before.
When my Mustang was stock, it was not fun to drive. It was a white knuckle, tiring experience.
A two handed, full hands on the steering experience, with body roll, nose dive and haunches back bundle of nerves.
In contrast, I have three Fusions in my household. All four door family sedans.
A 2006, a 2011 and a recent 2017.
All three handled and drove much more confidently and less tiring than the Mustang prior to the suspension upgrades.
You can drive those Fusions all day with only your thumb and two fingers on the steering wheel.
At speed and on curvy roads.
Something that was not possible in the Mustang before.
The suspension upgrades on the Mustang merely brought it up to par with the Fusions.
OK, it's better now, but visualize the image for comparison.

Yes, it does have a slightly stiffer ride than the Fusions now but not harsh.
Not something that would prevent the enjoyment of the car.
Only felt on the roughest of back roads, chip sealed country roads with frost heaves and decades of patched potholes.
Once you hit anything resembling a normal road, you have to make a conscious effort to feel the difference.
The improved handling, response and not being so tired from driving a nervous car vastly outweigh the change in stiffness.

I repeat myself, for a positive reason here.
I mean no disrespect to anyone.
You have to do this to understand the huge improvements.
In typical human nature fashion. people don't know what they don't know.

Regards all.
 
Mineral Grey;n27333 said:
thanks Marc, some great info here.. i would like to do the 1" drop this spring. looks like i'll have to change my strut brace as my SR covers the full top and would interfere with the cc plates i would need to get.


Yes you will.
But that's a small cost by comparison.
You can sell this brace and recover a good chunk of the cost of your next brace.
The Ford V-6 brace, which happens to be the same brace that was stock on the 2008 Bullitt, will clear that intake cover you have there.
It is a taller brace than the GT brace because the intake manifold on the V-6 is taller than GT.
It is powder coated silver, same as in the Bullitts, minus the Bullitt badge.
It is stamped with the Ford Racing logo on that middle plate where the Bullitt badge was.
This conversation is about one year late.
I had bought one of those V-6 braces hoping it would clear my Ford Racing intake.
It didn't so I sold the brace to a buddy of mine last summer.
 
Ohtobbad;n27443 said:
Another thing to pay attention to is tires.
This will make a huge difference in how your car will
perform. Most Mustangs come with inadequate tires.
Selecting a decent performance tire will improve handling
greatly.

Agreed.... I wanted to do it all but not suffering the cash crunch too badly. Hoping after getting the suspension set, I flan settle on a wheel style, get the right width without taking things too far, get the right offset then match up sneakers that will cover drive ability in the cooler spring & fall but grip in the heat of summer without crazy tread wear. Trouble is too much selection with everything looking good. Too many options, I guess....
 
Ohtobbad;n27443 said:
Another thing to pay attention to is tires.
This will make a huge difference in how your car will
perform. Most Mustangs come with inadequate tires.
Selecting a decent performance tire will improve handling
greatly.

Yes tires very big improvement.
I just posted pictures of my previous 05GT in other thread, "The one that got away".
One of the very first things I did to that car was better tires than stock.
The originals were those 235/55/17 Continentals with a thread wear of 400.
Average at best.
I got some BFG's G-Force T/A KDW (discontinued now) in size 255/50/17 and a tread wear of 300.
Those were a big improvement even though they were on the same rim.
Then a couple years later I got some GT500 takeoff wheels with Good Year Eagle F1 Supercar tires to fit over my Brembo brakes.
These are 255/45/18 front and 285/40/18 rear with a tread wear of 220.
Now these were a huge improvement.
I still run these on my current car, on track and street, and very pleased.
I have two sets of wheels with these tires. One for track and one for street.
 
Was starting to feel like a long afternoon coming on, today... raining steady, already into happy hour, so sitting inside. Then the doorbell rings and Mr. UPS standing there with a couple boxes. Barton shifter and bracket arrived early. Gonna be busy getting the car out May 1st then trying to get the exhaust bits and now the shifter on before meeting up on the spring run to Amherst.

IMG_20190226_1613022.jpg
 
Mineral Grey;n28789 said:
Ordered new sneakers today for the Mustang. Also ordering camber plates soon, as last tires got chewed off way too early even doing alignments every 5k ..
Hope to also get ​​​​​ LT headers and TB ordered and on before dyno weekend.

What headers are you looking for? I ordered BBK last May, after the spring run to Oxford and got them delivered the day before halloween. Factory back ordered with a notice every 4 weeks that they should be shipped in 3 weeks. Don't leave it too long!
 
Mineral Grey;n28792 said:
Looking at the ceramic BBK . Looks like most places has em in stock and in Canada too, so fingers crossed ..Hope to pull the trigger soon.

I got my stainless gear from TDOT Performance. Picked the stuff then let it sit in the cart for a week. & got a 10% discount code then jumped. Did a lot of price comparing and they seemed to be the best last spring. The backorder wasn't their issue but mnufacturer. I had a chance to back out every update but didn't want to start from 0.
 
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