Thought of the day.

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Mike 2021 said:
Anyone running a whipple supercharger. If so how do they run on a gen 3 coyote engine or others, if so how do you like it any issues with it, short term long term evaluations.
Click to expand...

Ha, Ha, your questions are giving us clues as to what you’re getting done there Mike.
We won’t need to wait for your after pictures.

As I mentioned earlier, no forced induction in my cars, but Whipple is a very well known name in the Mustang world.
They have been the Ford Performance de facto contractor for several years now.
They have been since Roush stopped being.

They enjoy a very good reputation for good power and reliability.
To be the Ford Performance provider, their stuff has been thoroughly gone over and tested by Ford engineers.
They are also popular on F150 applications.

Any forced induction setup creates a lot of heat.
I would suggest that, as equally important as the make of the unit, so is ensuring good cooling.
So, if you are being offered different levels of cooling, this is one area not to skimp on and get the biggest or best cooling option offered.
Biggest and/or most efficient intercooler package.

You will appreciate it on a hot and humid July day when you head inland toward Sussex or the like and the temperature is well into the 30’s.

All twin screw SC’s are known to provide instant tire shredding low end torque.
They can catch unsuspecting drivers off guard.
They are known as the smoke show superchargers.

A bit of a contrast with the centrifugal superchargers like Vortech, Paxton and Pro Charger which are more known for high end power.
Just slightly more forgiving at low end with power that builds.
They are more known as the racers’ superchargers.
 
Marc pretty much nailed it.
I have never owned a car with Coyote engine.
I installed a whipple on my 4.6 and had no issues.

Dasilva knows what they are doing. Like anything if done
right, tuned right you will have no issues.

I do agreee with Marc on power also, get used to it,
big difference how it can react to pedal :)
 
67 AGAIN said:
Ha, Ha, your questions are giving us clues as to what you’re getting done there Mike.
We won’t need to wait for your after pictures.

As I mentioned earlier, no forced induction in my cars, but Whipple is a very well known name in the Mustang world.
They have been the Ford Performance de facto contractor for several years now.
They have been since Roush stopped being.

They enjoy a very good reputation for good power and reliability.
To be the Ford Performance provider, their stuff has been thoroughly gone over and tested by Ford engineers.
They are also popular on F150 applications.

Any forced induction setup creates a lot of heat.
I would suggest that, as equally important as the make of the unit, so is ensuring good cooling.
So, if you are being offered different levels of cooling, this is one area not to skimp on and get the biggest or best cooling option offered.
Biggest and/or most efficient intercooler package.

You will appreciate it on a hot and humid July day when you head inland toward Sussex or the like and the temperature is well into the 30’s.

All twin screw SC’s are known to provide instant tire shredding low end torque.
They can catch unsuspecting drivers off guard.
They are known as the smoke show superchargers.

A bit of a contrast with the centrifugal superchargers like Vortech, Paxton and Pro Charger which are more known for high end power.
Just slightly more forgiving at low end with power that builds.
They are more known as the racers’ superchargers.
Click to expand...
Thanks as always good advice, you are getting warmer lol, cooling mods is and will always be a concern some go with the larger intercooler some go with the duel fan cooling set-up. I think the duel fan would be for be?. Also billet crank and oil pump gears some say not required but again a good insurance protection up front. For a little more sound with a 17/8 kook long tube green cat. Back header system and H pipe would make a good sound out back. And a few suspension mods out back to keep all the power on the ground, billet vertical linkage, cradle lock and IRS tie ins would get the power to the ground, and top it off with a duel rated lowering springs.
 
67 AGAIN said:
Ha, Ha, your questions are giving us clues as to what you’re getting done there Mike.
We won’t need to wait for your after pictures.

As I mentioned earlier, no forced induction in my cars, but Whipple is a very well known name in the Mustang world.
They have been the Ford Performance de facto contractor for several years now.
They have been since Roush stopped being.

They enjoy a very good reputation for good power and reliability.
To be the Ford Performance provider, their stuff has been thoroughly gone over and tested by Ford engineers.
They are also popular on F150 applications.

Any forced induction setup creates a lot of heat.
I would suggest that, as equally important as the make of the unit, so is ensuring good cooling.
So, if you are being offered different levels of cooling, this is one area not to skimp on and get the biggest or best cooling option offered.
Biggest and/or most efficient intercooler package.

You will appreciate it on a hot and humid July day when you head inland toward Sussex or the like and the temperature is well into the 30’s.

All twin screw SC’s are known to provide instant tire shredding low end torque.
They can catch unsuspecting drivers off guard.
They are known as the smoke show superchargers.

A bit of a contrast with the centrifugal superchargers like Vortech, Paxton and Pro Charger which are more known for high end power.
Just slightly more forgiving at low end with power that builds.
They are more known as the racers’ superchargers.
Click to expand...
Thanks as always good advice, you are getting warmer lol, cooling mods is and will always be a concern some go with the larger intercooler some go with the duel fan cooling set-up. I think the duel fan would be for be?. Also billet crank and oil pump gears some say not required but again a good insurance protection up front. For a little more sound with a 17/8 kook long tube green cat. Back header system and H pipe would make a good sound out back. And a few suspension mods out back to keep all the power on the ground, billet vertical linkage, cradle lock and IRS tie ins would get the power to the ground, and top it off with a duel rated lowering springs
Ohtobbad said:
Marc pretty much nailed it.
I have never owned a car with Coyote engine.
I installed a whipple on my 4.6 and had no issues.

Dasilva knows what they are doing. Like anything if done
right, tuned right you will have no issues.

I do agreee with Marc on power also, get used to it,
big difference how it can react to pedal :)
Click to expand...
he did, I appreciate the feed back and yes everything I hear, low end torque is something that you need to get use to and not to come on to them, tire shredders lol, stick with a whipple tune no remote after market stuff and they should stay safe.
 
Mike 2021 said:
Thanks as always good advice, you are getting warmer lol, cooling mods is and will always be a concern some go with the larger intercooler some go with the duel fan cooling set-up. I think the duel fan would be for be?. Also billet crank and oil pump gears some say not required but again a good insurance protection up front. For a little more sound with a 17/8 kook long tube green cat. Back header system and H pipe would make a good sound out back. And a few suspension mods out back to keep all the power on the ground, billet vertical linkage, cradle lock and IRS tie ins would get the power to the ground, and top it off with a duel rated lowering springs.
Click to expand...
Dasilvas just completed a 2021 Mach 1(fighter jet grey with the handling package) with a Whipple Gen 5 3liter stage 2 SC no other mods and created 710rwhp and 600rwt with no other mods on a safe whipple tune. Thats Pretty good numbers for a Mach 1, with a proven tune. I see guys getting over 800/850rwhp from other tuners PBD and others, but that’s just asking for trouble, not sure why anyone would what to live so close to the edge.?
 
Mike 2021 said:
Dasilvas just completed a 2021 Mach 1(fighter jet grey with the handling package) with a Whipple Gen 5 3liter stage 2 SC no other mods and created 710rwhp and 600rwt with no other mods on a safe whipple tune. Thats Pretty good numbers for a Mach 1, with a proven tune. I see guys getting over 800/850rwhp from other tuners PBD and others, but that’s just asking for trouble, not sure why anyone would what to live so close to the edge.?
Click to expand...
Rumors are the coyote can handle 1000hp
History shows they are tough and great internals,
but 700hp is alot for a street car, most can't handle the
460-480 HP they come with lol.
 
Ohtobbad said:
Rumors are the coyote can handle 1000hp
History shows they are tough and great internals,
but 700hp is alot for a street car, most can't handle the
460-480 HP they come with lol.
Click to expand...

Quick math suggest that with a manual transmission, 710 at the rear wheels is roughly around 830-840 at the crank.

And with an automatic would be more around 850-860 at the crank.

Starting to creep up there.
 
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67 AGAIN said:
Quick math suggest that with a manual transmission, 710 at the rear wheels is roughly around 830-840 at the crank.

And with an automatic would be more around 850-860 at the crank.

Starting to creep up there.
Click to expand...
That is for sure but I was was see rear wheel HP corrected, most MFGs quote crank I believe you loose anywhere for 12 to 20% depending on your the set up
 
That’s about right.

And when you do this corrective math, the percentage to use for the correction also varies a bit depending if you start from known crank number and work down to rw number or if you start from rw number and work up to crank number.

With the Mustangs and the Tremec manual transmissions, you basically lose around 15% from crank to rw.
With automatics, it’s roughly 18%.
So if you know crank number, you figure out 15% or 18%, depending on transmission, and subtract that number from crank number to get rw number.

However, when you’re going the other way, rw number to crank, if you take rw number and multiply by 1.15 or 1.18, depending on transmission, the numbers fall short a bit.

I’ve discovered that when going from rw to crank number the corrected percentage to use to get back very close to initial crank number should be, in the case of manual- rw number X 1.18 and in the case of automatic- rw number X 1.21.

Those are the numbers I used above.
710 X 1.18 and
710 X 1.21.
 
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