Catch Can 2000 GT

67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
Mine is only a 2v 4.6 but is said for passenger side

Then it is for passenger side.
The plumbing does not allow them to be interchanged.

I stated I did not research the 2 valve.
You can do that.

When you order, you control which side you get. Driver or passenger.
That’s why research should be done before ordering.

I never said anything before because you had already taken possession of yours.
Was too late to say anything anyway.

But having either one is always better than having none.
And, one can always have both sides for best protection.

Experience has shown that one side of the engine pushes more oil gasses than the other, and it’s not necessarily the same side between engine generations.

I mentioned the difference between Driver and Passenger sides today, and between 4.6 gen and Coyote gen, for the benefit of Glen because he has not taken possession of his yet.
Still time to help him.

I also brought it up because majority of recent posts regarding catch cans have been from Coyote gen owners referencing Coyote gen cars, for which the Passenger side is the best one to have, if only having one.

It would be easy, but erroneous, to infer from all those posts that the best one to have for any Mustang is the Passenger side.
That is simply not the case and I point it out for everyone’s benefit.

Everyone, do your research before you order parts.
Sometimes save money. Sometimes get best bang for buck.
But always get best part for intended use.
 
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SVT4MT

Well-known member
But having either one is always better than having none.
And, one can always have both sides for best protection.

Experience has shown that one side of the engine pushes more oil gasses than the other, and it’s not necessarily the same side between engine generations.

My truck and car both are typically dry on the drivers side , and quite a bit on the passengers side , 6.2 L vs 5.2 L.

For all it costs, I chose to do both, as Marc has stated, both sides for best protection.
 

67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
For Glenn.
You definitely need to deal with Dasilva on this. And need to send them pics of your setup for them to help you.
Nothing off the shelf will fit in your car.
Anything you can fit will have to be modified.
Even the plumbing you have now is different from OE.

The best one to get for your engine is the driver’s side, as mentioned previously.
I think you should concentrate on getting that one.
Then if you can squeeze the passenger side in, that would be bonus.

There’s a lot going on there so I have doubts the off the shelf can would work above the valve cover.
But I think a remote setup would work.
It would be pretty much identical to the setup I have with the Ford Racing intake manifold.
For that to work, you may need to remove your strut tower brace so the can will perch on that flange on the strut tower just bellow the brace.
Dasilva will be able to tell if it will by looking at your pictures.
And if they think it will work, they can mock up the right plumbing lengths and connector angles for you.

I can take the cover off my car this weekend and take a pic or two and post.
 

2008BlackCSGT

Well-known member
For Glenn.
You definitely need to deal with Dasilva on this. And need to send them pics of your setup for them to help you.
Nothing off the shelf will fit in your car.
Anything you can fit will have to be modified.
Even the plumbing you have now is different from OE.

The best one to get for your engine is the driver’s side, as mentioned previously.
I think you should concentrate on getting that one.
Then if you can squeeze the passenger side in, that would be bonus.

There’s a lot going on there so I have doubts the off the shelf can would work above the valve cover.
But I think a remote setup would work.
It would be pretty much identical to the setup I have with the Ford Racing intake manifold.
For that to work, you may need to remove your strut tower brace so the can will perch on that flange on the strut tower just bellow the brace.
Dasilva will be able to tell if it will by looking at your pictures.
And if they think it will work, they can mock up the right plumbing lengths and connector angles for you.

I can take the cover off my car this weekend and take a pic or two and post.
Thanks for the input. Makes sense to check with DaSilva, they’re good to deal with too. I’ll take a look at your pics for reference and touch base with them next week. Guess I’ve got all winter to sort it out now that the salt is down on the roads.
 

67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
Apologies for encroaching on this thread but it’s great info for all members.

For Glenn: here pics of remote setup on my 06.

Bird’s eye view of driver side.

64C971F1-75B5-42B3-A51D-7BE1035DB07A.jpeg

In an unmodified 3 valve 4.6 car, there is a short piece of tubing between the two points I am pointing to here.
Oil gasses from inside the valve cover go back to the intake manifold to be burned in subsequent combustions.
In an unmodified car, the off the shelf catch can replaces the tubing that would be here from the factory and the can just rests on top of the valve cover, in the area outlined between my two gingers here.

D6EC80B1-657B-46E9-8CBB-8B819D2CBF66.jpeg

Because the Ford Racing intake has different dimensions than the OE intake, the off the shelf can setup does not work with this intake.
So they do a remote setup where the can is attached to the flange on the strut tower and they custom cut appropriate length plumbing to go from valve cover to can, and from can to intake.

In this pic, taken from the side, you see the bracket holding the can and the top of the can to the right of the oil dip stick, or just behind the dip stick.

293C9CE1-3200-46A8-8DC7-167358C3FED1.jpeg

In this last pic, you get a more level view from the front, looking back at the can behind the dip stick.
You see here that you would Not need to ditch your strut tower brace.
There is enough clearance to accommodate the brace.
Now, would the brace make it harder to access the can to empty it?
You’ll only know once it is setup.

E81EFE68-A1EF-4D22-AA82-DB314ACCAE38.jpeg
 

67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
For those wondering, I did not remove my strut tower brace because of the catch can.
I had to remove it because the FR intake is taller than the OE intake and there was not enough clearance to allow the strut tower brace.

The Boss 302 brace would clear this intake but then I would require a taller hood like a cowl or dome hood.
The Boss 302 brace does not fit under anything resembling the 05 to 09 stock hood.
 

67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
Back to catch cans…

For the 3 valve 4.6 cars, I thought I would show this because it is visually obvious.

If there is any doubt that the driver side can catches more oil than the passenger side, ponder the following.

The plumbing on the driver side is easily twice the diameter of the passenger side.
Larger diameter plumbing usually equals larger debit.

First pic is driver side plumbing.
Larger than my finger.

C68CEDBB-59BC-4DA1-8CE9-DBA86985C5CB.jpeg

Second pic is passenger side plumbing.
Barely the size of the tip of my finger.

0E410C3F-986E-4272-A7DB-A2BDEE46130E.jpeg
 

SVT4MT

Well-known member
IMG_2948.JPG

Just for perspective in the discussion, without giving anyone the finger, ;), here's the Ford Performance catch cans, passenger side is just behind the coolant overflow tank, and drivers side is between the CAI and the strut tower brace.

No brackets required, the tubing holds them in place, and oddly enough, tubing on both sides is the same diameter, yet, as previously stated, the drivers side can is usually dry .

As I have also stated previously, the four allen screws are a bit of a pain in the ass to remove to empty the cans, got to be really careful not to drop one and you need to use a shop towel or syringe to empty the cans.

I find the JLT cans are a better design and materials, but the FP cans look OEM.

IMG_3009.JPG

Just because I know Marc picks up on these details, the overflow tank in the second pic was a substitute for the OEM clear plastic "grenade" tank.....tried it, didn't like it, swapped it back to the original.

Maybe one of these days I'll put the aluminum one on the classifieds. :LOL:
 

67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
Mike, you can get out of sponging the can dry or using a syringe (or I guess something like a turkey baster would probably work) by undoing the 2 clip connectors and pulling the whole thing out, plumbing attached and all.

That way you can simply dump the oil out.
Probably a whole lot easier to undo the Allen screws as well, with less risk of losing them.

Then clip it back in once done.
You might appreciate it more that way.

I do that with my JLT on the 15 Coyote.
Makes it a lot easier to unscrew the can cover.
Don’t have to work in a tight space.
 
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67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
Cover came off the 15 today to tend to the battery.

So took a couple shots of the JLT can in that car, on the passenger side.
It sits in the same place as the Ford Performance one from the Shelby above, behind the coolant reservoir, held in place by the plumbing lines.

A little tight to get in behind the reservoir to unscrew the can from the top to empty it.

So, like I suggested to Mike above, I unclip the connector on each line and pull it completely out to empty it.
Makes unscrewing the can from the top a lot easier.

Dump, screw back on and clip back in.
The engine cover easily unclips by pulling up slightly to expose the attachment point on the intake manifold.

4BF3E15E-6C84-4E55-B911-F34EC1404151.jpeg

4774EE65-4C59-487A-ABC3-E0D7D9901790.jpeg
 

2008BlackCSGT

Well-known member
Just had a good chat with DaSilva, they didn't need under hood pictures, the vortec and intercooler set up is fairly common for them (we're never as special as we think we are). He said only the passenger side, the other drivers side would never fill up anyway. One in the mail for $230
 
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