After Market

67 AGAIN said:
From the experience files… ?

First, decide what your goal is for your car.
Leather on base seats, although will look great, will be slippery in corners,
especially for right seat passenger, no matter who it is.

If building straight line rocket, not much of an issue.
If you want to fully exploit the handling pack on your car, keep the seats you have.
The fabric material keeps everyone planted in the seats much better.
Or do go up to the Recaros, leather or fabric.

On the Recaros, if you haven’t already, you should try to sit in them for a bit before pulling the trigger.
Some people find the bolstering a bit tight.

Sometimes, personal body type can influence decision.
With the intent of remaining objective here, often individuals of smaller stature fit better in the Recaros.
And individuals of heftier stature sometimes, not always, find them a bit tight or restrictive after a while.
Click to expand...
Thanks,
I would like to run it I few times a year down the track and possibly a road course, but mostly a straight line rocket?. Thats why I was leaning with the Recaros. I will try to seat in a few in the near future. As for body type and fit as mentioned I am on a diet lol???
 
Yes. Definitely going to be a big change.
Gonna sound good with the H pipe. ?
I’m a fan.

That first part, subframe support brace, that must be fairly new in the BMR catalog.
Never saw it before.
I have the cradle lockout and vertical link on my 15.

You’re not concerned the pro kit will make car so low it will limit you?
Car already low and front splitter even lower.

We brought that blue one in our shop yesterday to do the X pipe and I think the splitter rubbed just driving in the service bay.
Some of the asphalt where cars always drive in and out is sunken a bit lower than rest.
Whoever was driving put the wheels there and apparently that was enough to cause splitter to rub on way in.

Anyway. Going to be nice. ?
 
I think the Kooks should add to the sound also
The IRS tie-in just helps to support the cradle lockouts and vertical links
I hope not I’ll try it if it’s to low I’ll go back to stock springs
Scary to think it will be to low but fingers cross the worse thing it only takes one mistake ?
 
Part of what makes it lower is the tire package.
They are wide and very low profile.
Compared to the non HP cars, the tires are about 1 inch smaller total diameter.
So makes the car a half inch lower just with tires.

The long tubes will make it louder.
Significantly louder. ?
But H pipe will give it deep throaty sound. ?
More than X pipe.

After seeing how the Ford Performance X pipe goes on with the supplied clamps, I’m not a fan anymore.
We ended up getting clamps from CarQuest to finish the job.

I’m back to being an H pipe fan and getting Dasilva to put it on.
They use Magnaflow clamps.
Pretty much the best in the business.
 
67 AGAIN said:
Part of what makes it lower is the tire package.
They are wide and very low profile.
Compared to the non HP cars, the tires are about 1 inch smaller total diameter.
So makes the car a half inch lower just with tires.

The long tubes will make it louder.
Significantly louder. ?
But H pipe will give it deep throaty sound. ?
More than X pipe.
Click to expand...
Never thought about the tire size from the HP to the standard Mach’s, I believe this kit will lower the front only half and inch and out back a full inch but don’t quote me on that. Time will tell if it will work or not but I have watch Steeda do it on their HP daily driver and it seems to work. Not the same company but the Roughly same drop.
 
You could remove the bottom splitter.
Before it goes on, it’s the same bumper on both cars.
Rivets holding it could easily be drilled.
Or put larger diameter tires back on.
Gain back that initial half inch.
 
I fact checked quickly.
Nothing has changed.

The Pro Kit lowers the S550 approx: 1 inch in the back and 1.2 inch in front.
Reason for that is that from the factory, when you step back and look at side profile of the S550, the front is slightly higher than the back.
So pretty much all lowering kits lower the front slightly more than the back, to address this weird look.

Steeda won’t use Eibach on their own car.
They will use their own stuff.
There is a high likelihood the car you saw had their minimum drop springs.
Those lower the S550 about a half inch front and back.
About the only exception to what I noted above.

I don’t like that look of the front higher than rear neither.
But I thought the Eibach pro kit was a bit low for our NB roads.
I did not go Steeda minimum drop because they don’t address higher front.

I went with BMR minimum drop springs.
They lower the S550 about a half inch in back and 3/4 inch in front to address the higher front end but not too low overall.
And my tires are closer diameter to the non HP Mach than the HP model.

So if you add the spring drop and difference in tire size, your car will be a good inch and a half + lower than a non HP Mach.
This is what will make your splitter low.
 
67 AGAIN said:
I fact checked quickly.
Nothing has changed.

The Pro Kit lowers the S550 approx: 1 inch in the back and 1.2 inch in front.
Reason for that is that from the factory, when you step back and look at side profile of the S550, the front is slightly higher than the back.
So pretty much all lowering kits lower the front slightly more than the back, to address this weird look.

Steeda won’t use Eibach on their own car.
They will use their own stuff.
There is a high likelihood the car you saw had their minimum drop springs.
Those lower the S550 about a half inch front and back.
About the only exception to what I noted above.

I don’t like that look of the front higher than rear neither.
But I thought the Eibach pro kit was a bit low for our NB roads.
I did not go Steeda minimum drop because they don’t address higher front.

I went with BMR minimum drop springs.
They lower the S550 about a half inch in back and 3/4 inch in front to address the higher front end but not too low overall.
And my tires are closer diameter to the non HP Mach than the HP model.

So if you add the spring drop and difference in tire size, your car will be a good inch and a half + lower than a non HP Mach.
This is what will make your splitter low.
Click to expand...
1.2” up front never knew that that will make it quite low, maybe too low for NB your right, but I’ll have to see, and I am with you there I do like the look of a more levelled out stang look
 
I also see they quoted you some camber bolts.
But the HP is advertised as having adjustable strut mounts.
You probably don’t need the camber bolts then.

Although, I looked at the one we have and there is nothing outwardly visible on the strut tops to indicate that it is a different strut mount underneath.

It could be as simple as when you loosen the top nuts, there is play in the mount as opposed to the base mount, which has no play.

That might be a point worth clarifying before they start the tear down and install.
And is that factory “adjustable” mount a rubber bushing like the non-adjustable mount?

If it is rubber, for maximum return on investment, it might be worth considering a ball bearing mount in lieu of both the stock mount and camber bolts.

Reason is the rubber mount allows deflection of the top of the strut in cornering.
The ball type mount eliminates that deflection, making for sharper steering response and more precision.
Divert the money intended for the camber bolts toward a set of Caster Camber plates.

You won’t know or believe what I’m talking about until you get the plates and feel the difference for yourself.

I have Maximum Motorsport Caster Camber plates on both my cars, and love them.

If I get another car. If that Mach 1 gets built, it’s going to be one of the first mods I do.
 
Mike 2021 said:
1.2” up front never knew that that will make it quite low, maybe too low for NB your right, but I’ll have to see, and I am with you there I do like the look of a more levelled out stang look
Click to expand...
With the lowering springs and splitter, you might not be able to take any of our cable ferries and Deer Island and Digby ferries. I know I've scraped on them in the past when tide was low
 
67 AGAIN said:
I also see they quoted you some camber bolts.
But the HP is advertised as having adjustable strut mounts.
You probably don’t need the camber bolts then.

Although, I looked at the one we have and there is nothing outwardly visible on the strut tops to indicate that it is a different strut mount underneath.

It could be as simple as when you loosen the top nuts, there is play in the mount as opposed to the base mount, which has no play.

That might be a point worth clarifying before they start the tear down and install.
And is that factory “adjustable” mount a rubber bushing like the non-adjustable mount?

If it is rubber, for maximum return on investment, it might be worth considering a ball bearing mount in lieu of both the stock mount and camber bolts.

Reason is the rubber mount allows deflection of the top of the strut in cornering.
The ball type mount eliminates that deflection, making for sharper steering response and more precision.
Divert the money intended for the camber bolts toward a set of Caster Camber plates.

You won’t know or believe what I’m talking about until you get the plates and feel the difference for yourself.

I have Maximum Motorsport Caster Camber plates on both my cars, and love them.

If I get another car. If that Mach 1 gets built, it’s going to be one of the first mods I do.
Click to expand...
I seen that on the quote, never questioned it but I will reach out to Joe and ask the question?
 
Mike 2021 said:
I could remove the bottom splitter also that may help
Click to expand...

67 AGAIN said:
You could remove the bottom splitter.
Before it goes on, it’s the same bumper on both cars.
Rivets holding it could easily be drilled.
Or put larger diameter tires back on.
Gain back that initial half inch.
Click to expand...

I read myself back last night.
I should qualify.

I was agreeing with your previous post but in a Ha Ha kind of way way.
I should have included a ? or an Lol there.

Honestly, I wouldn’t remove the splitter or change the tires.
You paid a lot of good money to get those as part of the Handling Package.

My intent was to bring to your attention just how low your car will be with the lowering springs.

You still have a few days to think about it before they get started.

If you have any reservations on height after reflecting on it, if it were me I would scrap the springs and leave car stock height.

That handling pack is very capable from the factory.
It’s GT350 stuff by another name.

For improved steering response, like I mentioned in previous post, I would use the funds I had set aside for the springs and get the Caster Camber plates instead and leave stock height.

The cradle lockout, the vertical link and that other cradle support are all good.
They will control wheel hop when you come on to that supercharger.

I also believe you will lose your strut tower brace and possibly part of your K brace, or firewall brace, with the supercharger setup.
This will take away some structural strength from the top.
You could again use the funds from the springs to partially compensate for that loss with a G track brace underneath (also called K member brace or A arm support) to stiffen up your K member to make up some of what you lose up top.

G track is the Steeda version.
I like its design because it leaves the holes on bottom of your K member free to use as anchor points for straps if you trailer your car.
K member brace or A arm support is the BMR version.
They both do the same thing but the BMR uses the holes under the K member so you might lose a potential anchor point for straps.

Sorry I get long winded sometimes.
That’s what years of modding these cars does. ?
 
67 AGAIN said:
I read myself back last night.
I should qualify.

I was agreeing with your previous post but in a Ha Ha kind of way way.
I should have included a ? or an Lol there.

Honestly, I wouldn’t remove the splitter or change the tires.
You paid a lot of good money to get those as part of the Handling Package.

My intent was to bring to your attention just how low your car will be with the lowering springs.

You still have a few days to think about it before they get started.

If you have any reservations on height after reflecting on it, if it were me I would scrap the springs and leave car stock height.

That handling pack is very capable from the factory.
It’s GT350 stuff by another name.

For improved steering response, like I mentioned in previous post, I would use the funds I had set aside for the springs and get the Caster Camber plates instead and leave stock height.

The cradle lockout, the vertical link and that other cradle support are all good.
They will control wheel hop when you come on to that supercharger.

I also believe you will lose your strut tower brace and possibly part of your K brace, or firewall brace, with the supercharger setup.
This will take away some structural strength from the top.
You could again use the funds from the springs to partially compensate for that loss with a G track brace underneath (also called K member brace or A arm support) to stiffen up your K member to make up some of what you lose up top.

G track is the Steeda version.
I like its design because it leaves the holes on bottom of your K member free to use as anchor points for straps if you trailer your car.
K member brace or A arm support is the BMR version.
They both do the same thing but the BMR uses the holes under the K member so you might lose a potential anchor point for straps.

Sorry I get long winded sometimes.
That’s what years of modding these cars does. ?
Click to expand...
Thanks I appreciate all your comments and experience, and also from everyone in the group, as a first time to the Mustang ownership and having always been drawn to doing upgrade, as I have done this to everyone of my Harleys. Yours and Als comments really have me thinking. I did check out the K member from BMR but I thought it would not clear Kook long tubes, May have to go with just a single cross member support. I’ll have to check the Steeda web site, this has been on my mind because yes I will be loosing the strut brace, and need to stiffen it from the bottom. Or just forget up the lowering all together,
 
Mike 2021 said:
Thanks I appreciate all your comments and experience, and also from everyone in the group, as a first time to the Mustang ownership and having always been drawn to doing upgrade, as I have done this to everyone of my Harleys. Yours and Als comments really have me thinking. I did check out the K member from BMR but I thought it would not clear Kook long tubes, May have to go with just a single cross member support. I’ll have to check the Steeda web site, this has been on my mind because yes I will be loosing the strut brace, and need to stiffen it from the bottom. Or just forget up the lowering all together,
Click to expand...
The two point G trace brace seems that it’s the only one to fit. Steeda has a informative video on their site
 
My 2 cents, I would either lose the lower springs or least go with a smaller drop.
I would highly reccommend Maximum motorsports caster camber plates
Ford says they are adjustable at the bottom, not not enough and not
caster and camber. Plates are not expensive and well worth it
when doing HP alignment settings.

My car is very low from factory, for what its worth, I don't even consider ferries as
an option and just don't do it.
 
Ohtobbad said:
My 2 cents, I would either lose the lower springs or least go with a smaller drop.
I would highly reccommend Maximum motorsports caster camber plates
Ford says they are adjustable at the bottom, not not enough and not
caster and camber. Plates are not expensive and well worth it
when doing HP alignment settings.

My car is very low from factory, for what its worth, I don't even consider ferries as
an option and just don't do it.
Click to expand...
I got a call into Joe to see his take on setup.
 
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