Suspension/Lower Control Arms Upgrade - 2007 Mustang GT 500
- Thread starter Helfman
- Start date
67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
Strictly for wheel hop, it’s rear control arms that address that.
Start by doing lower control arms.
They don’t add any NVH (Noise, Vibration or Harshness).
If you are still stock ride height, then control arms only.
If you are lowered, add relocation brackets, to get proper angle back to the arms.
Recommend BMR for both LCA and relocation brackets.
This will not eliminate 100% but will help a lot.
If you’re still not completely happy after that, then you can do upper control arm.
Be advised upper control arm does contribute to added NVH. Mostly noise transfer.
Again, BMR recommended.
All with polyurethane bushings for minimal added NVH.
If you think you can live with a bit of extra noise, and you like your burnouts, then do all three at same time.
If you want maximum control, the next step up would be spherical bearings instead polyurethane bushings.
However this will increase NVH, mostly in the form of noise and harshness.
The likes of a track car, which you say you don’t want.
If you want to go that hardcore, BMR makes those too.
GT500 suspension, especially if older model like 07 to 09, must be getting tired.
Lowering springs such as Ford Performance or Eibach with dampers from Ford Performance, Eibach or Bilstein, along with sway bars from Eibach or Ford Performance would really improve the driving dynamics of the car.
However, these have no bearing on wheel hop.
They would make it feel like a totally new and much better handling car.
Start by doing lower control arms.
They don’t add any NVH (Noise, Vibration or Harshness).
If you are still stock ride height, then control arms only.
If you are lowered, add relocation brackets, to get proper angle back to the arms.
Recommend BMR for both LCA and relocation brackets.
This will not eliminate 100% but will help a lot.
If you’re still not completely happy after that, then you can do upper control arm.
Be advised upper control arm does contribute to added NVH. Mostly noise transfer.
Again, BMR recommended.
All with polyurethane bushings for minimal added NVH.
If you think you can live with a bit of extra noise, and you like your burnouts, then do all three at same time.
If you want maximum control, the next step up would be spherical bearings instead polyurethane bushings.
However this will increase NVH, mostly in the form of noise and harshness.
The likes of a track car, which you say you don’t want.
If you want to go that hardcore, BMR makes those too.
GT500 suspension, especially if older model like 07 to 09, must be getting tired.
Lowering springs such as Ford Performance or Eibach with dampers from Ford Performance, Eibach or Bilstein, along with sway bars from Eibach or Ford Performance would really improve the driving dynamics of the car.
However, these have no bearing on wheel hop.
They would make it feel like a totally new and much better handling car.
Thanks so much for the reply! I will definitely get my lower control arms done and will keep your information as an option.
S197CS
Corner Carver
Hey,
As Marc said above, rear lower control arms, the rest depends on how deep you want to proceed with modifications.
I personally went with Whiteline Suspensions Rear lower control arms and relocation brackets, as well as their front and rear sway bars and watts link, Eibach prokit springs, front GT500 lower control arms (I had a GT). I didn't do the upper control arm as I didn't want the added NVH and after doing the lowers and relocation brackets i was pleased for my use case.
My build tread is still lingering around here on the forum, as Marc's is as well i believe.
happy modding!
As Marc said above, rear lower control arms, the rest depends on how deep you want to proceed with modifications.
I personally went with Whiteline Suspensions Rear lower control arms and relocation brackets, as well as their front and rear sway bars and watts link, Eibach prokit springs, front GT500 lower control arms (I had a GT). I didn't do the upper control arm as I didn't want the added NVH and after doing the lowers and relocation brackets i was pleased for my use case.
My build tread is still lingering around here on the forum, as Marc's is as well i believe.
happy modding!
67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
I mentioned this in past threads but this one is entirely appropriate to repeat it in.
Strictly speaking rear relocation brackets for the S197 platform, the BMR were tested against other popular brands such as Ford Racing, Maximum Motorsports, Steeda, etc., in drag racing applications, and were shown to be the most robust of the bunch.
These tests were done by Matt Dasilva on his 2005 car and the BMR were the only brackets that held up to his hard launches.
The BMR design has an extra bolt/attachment point to the axle housing that none of the others have so they don’t twist or bend under heavy load like some others.
Strictly speaking rear relocation brackets for the S197 platform, the BMR were tested against other popular brands such as Ford Racing, Maximum Motorsports, Steeda, etc., in drag racing applications, and were shown to be the most robust of the bunch.
These tests were done by Matt Dasilva on his 2005 car and the BMR were the only brackets that held up to his hard launches.
The BMR design has an extra bolt/attachment point to the axle housing that none of the others have so they don’t twist or bend under heavy load like some others.
Last edited:
white 5.0
Well-known member
For the relocation brackets you will only need them if you go lower then 1-1/2 if not well you really do not need them waist of money .would say all products are good depend what you intend to do with your car and also it s a personal choice like some people prefer gm truck compare to ford . But I prefer ford.
other brand also good it perfect time of year to shop with big specials coming specially Black Friday deals
other brand also good it perfect time of year to shop with big specials coming specially Black Friday deals
67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
What’s nice about this thread is that Helfman started it with a specific concern on a specific car model.
Which were, a 2007 GT500 and wanting to eliminate or reduce wheel hop.
I would suggest to Helfman or anyone else looking at doing mods to their car to do diligent research.
This would obviously focus on the hardware one is thinking about adding to their car, but I would also suggest an objective introspection into how you drive your car and what you plan to do with it in the future.
Helfman has made it clear that he has no plans to track the car, but he has a specific concern about wheel hop.
I don’t know Helfman nor did elaborate in his initial question, but the fact that he was very specific about this aspect tells me he regularly or periodically put his car into a wheel hop situation, which means loss of traction and wheel spin.
Translation, burnouts.
If this is the case then his needs are very different from the Sunday afternoon cruiser with the loving spouse on board scenario.
Along with driving style being different, tire and wheel combos are different from a GT to a supercharged GT500 so the two cars won’t have the same reaction or result within the same or similar driving inputs.
I bring this up because advice with very specific criteria was given, leaving the impression that there is no wiggle room.
I don’t agree with this advice and since it’s a grey, drizzly fall afternoon with little else to do, I will expand on the subject.
I’n no engineer or CAD design expert but to assist in understanding some of the principals I sketched a few visuals.
The sketches show this part of the car where the control arms (in red) tie to the chassis in front of the rear axle (front end of the control arm) and the axle housing at the back (rear end of the control arm).
The control arms are inboard of the wheel or behind it.
The four sketches I have.
Sketch #1 is a stock height car with no relocation brackets.
From what we know, this is Helfman’s car.
In this configuration, with all the factory OE hardware all S197 Mustangs are susceptible to wheel hop when traction is broken and prolonged wheel spin is maintained.
IE burnout situation.
The fist corrective measure is to replace lower control arms with arms containing bushings with stiffer than the factory rubber.
This advice already discussed previously.
Still with sketch #1, notice that the rear of the control arms point slightly downward toward the back. This rear downward angle acts to distribute weight or energy onto the axle under acceleration.
This energy transfer contributes to traction and wheel hop control.
Sketch #2 is a lowered car with no relocation brackets.
The first and most important thing I want readers to notice is the new angle of the control arms.
Notice how the rear end of the control arm is now higher than sketch#1.
In fact, it’s close to horizontal.
See the little arrow lines I drew in to indicate the direction of the energy being transferred by the control arms?
Now that the control arm is close to horizontal the energy is no longer being transferred down onto the axle.
It is just being transferred on a horizontal plane toward the back, no longer contributing to added traction or minimizing wheel hop.
This happens because when a car is lowered, the axle moves up under the car, reducing this downward rear angle of the control arms.
So any lowered car, no set numbers required, has less traction and is at risk for more wheel hop. Any lowering contributes to this condition, whether 1/4 inch or 2 and a 1/2 inches. Any lowering starts to affect things.
This is why I don’t agree with the specific advice given above.
Sketch #3 shows a lowered car, no specific numbers suggested, with relocation brackets.
The relocation brackets allow to restore that downward angle of the control arm toward the axle.
This restores that geometry pushing energy down onto the axle under acceleration in order to provide traction and control wheel hop.
Some relocation brackets only have 2 points to adjust the control arms to.
Others have 3 points allowing for more variance in adjustability.
With a 3 point of adjustability relocation bracket, one can return the control arm angle close to original whether on a slightly lowered car or aggressively lowered car.
Top attachment point for conservative drop and lower attachment points with more aggressive drops.
So, any lowering and relocation brackets become a viable option.
This is where driving style and intended use of the car become important.
The Sunday afternoon cruiser never puts his car in a situation of loss of traction, therefor does not require relocation brackets, but it does not mean that they are not an appropriate option for another driver.
A driver, for example, who likes to do hard launches and burnouts, and is contending with wheel hop.
Here I show the BMR brackets.
Second picture shows them installed.
The top three bolts tie them to the axle.
This one more point of attachment than the other brackets which only have two points of attachment.
The bottom three holes are the three points where you can attach the rear end of the control arms in order to restore that downward angle onto the axle discussed above.
In the installed picture, they choose the middle attachment point for the control arm.
This is the look I was going for in sketch #3.
Sketch #4 is a stock height car using relocation brackets for specific applications.
Namely a drag car seeking maximum traction and maximum wheel hop control.
Or someone who likes to do burnouts and wants to tame wheel hop.
In this application, the relocation bracket is used to increase the rearward angle.
I sketched it as if they were using the top attachment point for the control arm, making that angle more aggressive, for more energy on the axle on acceleration.
Relocation brackets can have many useful applications on the S197 cars in the right circumstances.
Research and knowing the intended use of the car very important.
Advice from sources who have actual on car experience is most often more insightful than advice from sources who have not experienced the product in question.
It most often is not as clearcut as, if you are this high - no, and if you are this high- yes.
Note to readers.
The above information is only applicable to the S197 platform cars.
Those between 2005 and 2014.
Happy modding everyone.
Which were, a 2007 GT500 and wanting to eliminate or reduce wheel hop.
I would suggest to Helfman or anyone else looking at doing mods to their car to do diligent research.
This would obviously focus on the hardware one is thinking about adding to their car, but I would also suggest an objective introspection into how you drive your car and what you plan to do with it in the future.
Helfman has made it clear that he has no plans to track the car, but he has a specific concern about wheel hop.
I don’t know Helfman nor did elaborate in his initial question, but the fact that he was very specific about this aspect tells me he regularly or periodically put his car into a wheel hop situation, which means loss of traction and wheel spin.
Translation, burnouts.
If this is the case then his needs are very different from the Sunday afternoon cruiser with the loving spouse on board scenario.
Along with driving style being different, tire and wheel combos are different from a GT to a supercharged GT500 so the two cars won’t have the same reaction or result within the same or similar driving inputs.
I bring this up because advice with very specific criteria was given, leaving the impression that there is no wiggle room.
I don’t agree with this advice and since it’s a grey, drizzly fall afternoon with little else to do, I will expand on the subject.
I’n no engineer or CAD design expert but to assist in understanding some of the principals I sketched a few visuals.
The sketches show this part of the car where the control arms (in red) tie to the chassis in front of the rear axle (front end of the control arm) and the axle housing at the back (rear end of the control arm).
The control arms are inboard of the wheel or behind it.
The four sketches I have.
Sketch #1 is a stock height car with no relocation brackets.
From what we know, this is Helfman’s car.
In this configuration, with all the factory OE hardware all S197 Mustangs are susceptible to wheel hop when traction is broken and prolonged wheel spin is maintained.
IE burnout situation.
The fist corrective measure is to replace lower control arms with arms containing bushings with stiffer than the factory rubber.
This advice already discussed previously.
Still with sketch #1, notice that the rear of the control arms point slightly downward toward the back. This rear downward angle acts to distribute weight or energy onto the axle under acceleration.
This energy transfer contributes to traction and wheel hop control.
Sketch #2 is a lowered car with no relocation brackets.
The first and most important thing I want readers to notice is the new angle of the control arms.
Notice how the rear end of the control arm is now higher than sketch#1.
In fact, it’s close to horizontal.
See the little arrow lines I drew in to indicate the direction of the energy being transferred by the control arms?
Now that the control arm is close to horizontal the energy is no longer being transferred down onto the axle.
It is just being transferred on a horizontal plane toward the back, no longer contributing to added traction or minimizing wheel hop.
This happens because when a car is lowered, the axle moves up under the car, reducing this downward rear angle of the control arms.
So any lowered car, no set numbers required, has less traction and is at risk for more wheel hop. Any lowering contributes to this condition, whether 1/4 inch or 2 and a 1/2 inches. Any lowering starts to affect things.
This is why I don’t agree with the specific advice given above.
Sketch #3 shows a lowered car, no specific numbers suggested, with relocation brackets.
The relocation brackets allow to restore that downward angle of the control arm toward the axle.
This restores that geometry pushing energy down onto the axle under acceleration in order to provide traction and control wheel hop.
Some relocation brackets only have 2 points to adjust the control arms to.
Others have 3 points allowing for more variance in adjustability.
With a 3 point of adjustability relocation bracket, one can return the control arm angle close to original whether on a slightly lowered car or aggressively lowered car.
Top attachment point for conservative drop and lower attachment points with more aggressive drops.
So, any lowering and relocation brackets become a viable option.
This is where driving style and intended use of the car become important.
The Sunday afternoon cruiser never puts his car in a situation of loss of traction, therefor does not require relocation brackets, but it does not mean that they are not an appropriate option for another driver.
A driver, for example, who likes to do hard launches and burnouts, and is contending with wheel hop.
Here I show the BMR brackets.
Second picture shows them installed.
The top three bolts tie them to the axle.
This one more point of attachment than the other brackets which only have two points of attachment.
The bottom three holes are the three points where you can attach the rear end of the control arms in order to restore that downward angle onto the axle discussed above.
In the installed picture, they choose the middle attachment point for the control arm.
This is the look I was going for in sketch #3.
Sketch #4 is a stock height car using relocation brackets for specific applications.
Namely a drag car seeking maximum traction and maximum wheel hop control.
Or someone who likes to do burnouts and wants to tame wheel hop.
In this application, the relocation bracket is used to increase the rearward angle.
I sketched it as if they were using the top attachment point for the control arm, making that angle more aggressive, for more energy on the axle on acceleration.
Relocation brackets can have many useful applications on the S197 cars in the right circumstances.
Research and knowing the intended use of the car very important.
Advice from sources who have actual on car experience is most often more insightful than advice from sources who have not experienced the product in question.
It most often is not as clearcut as, if you are this high - no, and if you are this high- yes.
Note to readers.
The above information is only applicable to the S197 platform cars.
Those between 2005 and 2014.
Happy modding everyone.
Last edited:
Marc that is far to much free time, but very cool
I think the number one thing when doing Mods, is
uderstanding how you drive, what you want and understand what will happen to
your car when you do the Mods. I find most people don't go through the first process well.
They chooose the fix, with not understanding the results,
More you do the tighter the car gets, rougher it gets and the better it works.
then they complain about the Sunday drive with the Mrs or she complains,
You might be happy and could leave her home, but that maybe far more painful and costly,
take this advice at your own risk.
Taking the time to understand this, will help with budget and end results.
Like long tube headers
I think the number one thing when doing Mods, is
uderstanding how you drive, what you want and understand what will happen to
your car when you do the Mods. I find most people don't go through the first process well.
They chooose the fix, with not understanding the results,
More you do the tighter the car gets, rougher it gets and the better it works.
then they complain about the Sunday drive with the Mrs or she complains,
You might be happy and could leave her home, but that maybe far more painful and costly,
take this advice at your own risk.
Taking the time to understand this, will help with budget and end results.
Like long tube headers
white 5.0
Well-known member
Like helfman said no track or race so control arm would be enough.and not to forget relocation bracket are very good when you need to change the geometry of the car and not to forget need to put adjustable upper control arm for the good angle of the pinion this a must but just for what he need Helfman said just for riding control arm is enough because would be better then the one he has right now pretty sure the one he has should be tired so would make a difference even if he would put a new set of oem would still be better.
67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
Helfman says he has a specific problem with “Wheel hop”.
That’s a strong indication the guy likes to do burnouts.
Because that’s where wheel hop occurs.
And he has a supercharged engine with lots of torque.
If he is lucky, control arms alone will solve his issue. But no two cars respond identically.
I’m saying don’t shut the door on relo brackets completely.
If the control arms alone don’t solve his wheel hop and the guy still wants to do burnouts, he’s going to have to keep looking for a solution, won’t he?
For majority of readers on here who never have and never intend to put their cars in a situation of loss of traction, IE burnout, not only are relocation brackets not necessary but even control arms not necessary.
On weekend cruises, majority of owners will never put their cars in situations to see the difference.
But for the few owners like Helfman, all avenues are worth considering.
That’s why I’m saying strict, one size fits all answers are not the right answer for everyone.
For the pinion angle, the minute a car is lowered at all the geometry changes.
There is no huge concern or rush to correct things then, because there is a window of tolerance.
What’s so different between that and adding relo brackets?
Remember the original poster has a specific issue with wheel hop.
I can share from my experience.
I have had control arms since I lowered the car in 2011 and relo brackets since 2012 on my ‘06.
And I’m not lowered to your threshold of 1 and a half inches.
I’m lowered one inch all around.
If I followed your advice, I would not have gotten the relo brackets because I’m not low enough. I would have avoided trying them.
But during the season of 2011 I experienced loss of traction and wheel hop. Bad wheel hop. It’s not a good feeling.
I know exactly what Helfman is talking about.
I did my research for my situation.
I concluded that relo brackets were the direction I wanted to go.
I got them in spring of 2012.
I don’t deliberately do burnouts but I regularly put my car in situations where it needs launch traction or forward bite.
I can happily report that traction is much better than before and on the few occasions where traction has succumbed, I have not experienced wheel hop.
The relo brackets were the solution for me.
If I had boxed myself into strict advice like yours, I would not have tried the relo brackets because I would not have met your criteria of being lowered at least 1 1/2 inches.
I don’t subscribe to being boxed in like that.
I can tell you I immensely prefer a car with better traction than a car with poor traction.
And very glad that I have not experienced wheel hop since.
As for how the car is doing mechanically with the changes?
Well let’s see, I’m lowered, I have relo brackets, I have a one piece driveshaft and upgraded gears.
There’s basically nothing original in the rear of my car but 12 years on, it’s still working like a champ with no leaks or noises or any indication that it does not like the changes I made.
I’m glad I got the relo brackets and grateful for the added traction they have provided.
I would never go back to what it was before.
I agree, this is not for vast majority of readers, but for Helfman and wheel hop issues, or drivers looking for added traction, keep it on the list of possible solutions.
That’s a strong indication the guy likes to do burnouts.
Because that’s where wheel hop occurs.
And he has a supercharged engine with lots of torque.
If he is lucky, control arms alone will solve his issue. But no two cars respond identically.
I’m saying don’t shut the door on relo brackets completely.
If the control arms alone don’t solve his wheel hop and the guy still wants to do burnouts, he’s going to have to keep looking for a solution, won’t he?
For majority of readers on here who never have and never intend to put their cars in a situation of loss of traction, IE burnout, not only are relocation brackets not necessary but even control arms not necessary.
On weekend cruises, majority of owners will never put their cars in situations to see the difference.
But for the few owners like Helfman, all avenues are worth considering.
That’s why I’m saying strict, one size fits all answers are not the right answer for everyone.
For the pinion angle, the minute a car is lowered at all the geometry changes.
There is no huge concern or rush to correct things then, because there is a window of tolerance.
What’s so different between that and adding relo brackets?
Remember the original poster has a specific issue with wheel hop.
I can share from my experience.
I have had control arms since I lowered the car in 2011 and relo brackets since 2012 on my ‘06.
And I’m not lowered to your threshold of 1 and a half inches.
I’m lowered one inch all around.
If I followed your advice, I would not have gotten the relo brackets because I’m not low enough. I would have avoided trying them.
But during the season of 2011 I experienced loss of traction and wheel hop. Bad wheel hop. It’s not a good feeling.
I know exactly what Helfman is talking about.
I did my research for my situation.
I concluded that relo brackets were the direction I wanted to go.
I got them in spring of 2012.
I don’t deliberately do burnouts but I regularly put my car in situations where it needs launch traction or forward bite.
I can happily report that traction is much better than before and on the few occasions where traction has succumbed, I have not experienced wheel hop.
The relo brackets were the solution for me.
If I had boxed myself into strict advice like yours, I would not have tried the relo brackets because I would not have met your criteria of being lowered at least 1 1/2 inches.
I don’t subscribe to being boxed in like that.
I can tell you I immensely prefer a car with better traction than a car with poor traction.
And very glad that I have not experienced wheel hop since.
As for how the car is doing mechanically with the changes?
Well let’s see, I’m lowered, I have relo brackets, I have a one piece driveshaft and upgraded gears.
There’s basically nothing original in the rear of my car but 12 years on, it’s still working like a champ with no leaks or noises or any indication that it does not like the changes I made.
I’m glad I got the relo brackets and grateful for the added traction they have provided.
I would never go back to what it was before.
I agree, this is not for vast majority of readers, but for Helfman and wheel hop issues, or drivers looking for added traction, keep it on the list of possible solutions.
67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
This is a good picture.
We can see the control arm behind the wheel.
Note how the rear of the control arm appears to be slightly higher than the front.
Not just near horizontal but above.
Looks like a lowered car with no relo brackets.
The geometry on this car is already changed from stock.
Relo brackets can’t hurt it anymore than that.
For most readers, this would be fine.
They will never put their car in situations where this will be an issue.
But for guys like me, Helfman, and Max, who contributed earlier and used to do autocross with his car, this is an issue.
That control arm pointing upward at the back like that means no energy transferred onto the axle on hard acceleration.
This leads to easy loss of traction and easy onset of wheel hop.
SVT4MT
Well-known member
white 5.0
Well-known member
Hi Marc I knew you would coment on the picture it s why I posted it. This car is the project car from steeda from what I know they a reputed company with alote of track record and track time quarter mile or specially autocross. The funny part is when I did my suspension on my car usually company like to sell there product and at the time they said to me with the springs I bought that were not more then 1-1/2 inches that I did not need the relocation bracket and it was waist of money so it s why I did not put them. I followed what they said.they might be wrong but for sure I can say my car is great maybe could be better but has no wheel hop .and I like my car handling is very good .
Cool video below also 600+hp
67 AGAIN
Enthusiast
As Mike points out, maybe we’re experiencing wheel spin. Pun intended.
But I'll keep playing for a bit.
This maybe like a Netflix series where people are tuning in to see what’ll be next.
Basic premise. A reader has a specific issue with wheel hop.
Is it fair to him that based on something Steeda told you about your build, means its off the table for him to try?
And, are you willing to share a bit more with us, Dan?
Do you spin the wheels or do burnouts with your car?
Either before or after your mods?
If not, you won’t get wheel hop.
That's where wheel hop occurs.
You have not been clear on that, but it is the central issue here.
I suspected you didn’t have the relo brackets from your comment.
You just confirmed it.
That brings up this observation on my part.
By not having experience with the brackets, how do you know what you don’t know about them?
I’m also guessing in your conversations with Steeda , you didn’t say you like to do burnouts, or that you had issues with wheel hop, or you intend to track the car.
Neither does Steeda in their video.
They emphasize it’s a street build.
They don’t take off aggressively in their demo.
They don’t spin the wheels so they don’t put themselves in a position of wheel hop.
The same kind of driving as the vast majority of owners and readers on this forum.
For all of these drivers and yourself, yes, and I agree, the brackets are not necessary.
Helfman has no intentions to track his car either, but he has specifically said he has an issue with wheel hop.
So he obviously does something different from the majority of owners, the Steeda car above and likely yourself.
Wheel hop only occurs when you break traction and spin the wheels or do burnouts.
Let’s call a spade a spade.
You never have to be anywhere near a track to do that.
If you read back, I suggested to start with control arms only, and if all goes well that could do the trick.
In that case we've been going back and forth for nothing.
But there’s no guarantee is there?
I suggested other options if the wheel hop persisted.
Then you came in and boxed everything nice and tidy: If you’re not lowered at least 1 1/2 inches then don’t.
I’m saying wait, keep an open mind.
If you still have hop after the control arms, you’re going to have to look some more for a solution, right?
I suggested successive remedies if the hop continues.
I never said they were a must from the start.
And yes, remedies for wheel hop may also be appropriate for some form of track cars but they don’t necessarily define a track car by themselves.
The owner decides what use he will have for his car.
I can say this:
Like you, I also thought I had the best handling car ever in 2011 after I did pretty near every suspension mod listed in that video and then some.
It was a dream and I didn’t think it could get better.
Until the day it got bad.
Late summer. Cooler temperatures.
Launch the car, break traction, stay in it.
Experience wheel hop.
Think I’m going to lose the rear end and break my car.
Get out of the gas. Take a breath.
A bit disturbed by the experience.
Decide to see if it’ll do it again.
I do. It does!
I’ve had enough. I decide I don’t want that feeling again.
As said, my research led me to the brackets in 2012.
I’m glad I did. There’s no denying car has much better traction now. It digs in and wants to go forward.
I would not undo it.
Like I said above, you don’t know what you don’t know, until you find out.
A great handling car may or may not have wheel hop if it breaks traction.
There is no direct correlation between the two.
Not all cars respond identically to mods.
I’m suggesting that leaving the door open to other solutions could be beneficial in such a case.
I have a challenge for you.
Call Steeda.
Tell them you have lowered your car with their stuff. No brackets.
Tell them you like to do burnouts, but every time you do one you get wheel hop.
Tell them you want to get rid of the wheel hop.
Find out what they suggest or recommend?
The video is nice but does not address wheel hop, which was the point of the initial question.
I’m sure the car in the video handles well.
Mine handled well too prior to the brackets.
It still handles well, but now it has better traction than before the brackets.
The video answers nothing one way or the other.
They emphasize it’s a street build, which theoretically could spend its whole life without spinning the wheels.
They don’t launch hard in their demo.
They don’t speak of wheel hop or the brackets.
It proves nothing one way or another.
We don’t know what we don’t know about it.
But I'll keep playing for a bit.
This maybe like a Netflix series where people are tuning in to see what’ll be next.
Basic premise. A reader has a specific issue with wheel hop.
Is it fair to him that based on something Steeda told you about your build, means its off the table for him to try?
And, are you willing to share a bit more with us, Dan?
Do you spin the wheels or do burnouts with your car?
Either before or after your mods?
If not, you won’t get wheel hop.
That's where wheel hop occurs.
You have not been clear on that, but it is the central issue here.
I suspected you didn’t have the relo brackets from your comment.
You just confirmed it.
That brings up this observation on my part.
By not having experience with the brackets, how do you know what you don’t know about them?
I’m also guessing in your conversations with Steeda , you didn’t say you like to do burnouts, or that you had issues with wheel hop, or you intend to track the car.
Neither does Steeda in their video.
They emphasize it’s a street build.
They don’t take off aggressively in their demo.
They don’t spin the wheels so they don’t put themselves in a position of wheel hop.
The same kind of driving as the vast majority of owners and readers on this forum.
For all of these drivers and yourself, yes, and I agree, the brackets are not necessary.
Helfman has no intentions to track his car either, but he has specifically said he has an issue with wheel hop.
So he obviously does something different from the majority of owners, the Steeda car above and likely yourself.
Wheel hop only occurs when you break traction and spin the wheels or do burnouts.
Let’s call a spade a spade.
You never have to be anywhere near a track to do that.
If you read back, I suggested to start with control arms only, and if all goes well that could do the trick.
In that case we've been going back and forth for nothing.
But there’s no guarantee is there?
I suggested other options if the wheel hop persisted.
Then you came in and boxed everything nice and tidy: If you’re not lowered at least 1 1/2 inches then don’t.
I’m saying wait, keep an open mind.
If you still have hop after the control arms, you’re going to have to look some more for a solution, right?
I suggested successive remedies if the hop continues.
I never said they were a must from the start.
And yes, remedies for wheel hop may also be appropriate for some form of track cars but they don’t necessarily define a track car by themselves.
The owner decides what use he will have for his car.
I can say this:
Like you, I also thought I had the best handling car ever in 2011 after I did pretty near every suspension mod listed in that video and then some.
It was a dream and I didn’t think it could get better.
Until the day it got bad.
Late summer. Cooler temperatures.
Launch the car, break traction, stay in it.
Experience wheel hop.
Think I’m going to lose the rear end and break my car.
Get out of the gas. Take a breath.
A bit disturbed by the experience.
Decide to see if it’ll do it again.
I do. It does!
I’ve had enough. I decide I don’t want that feeling again.
As said, my research led me to the brackets in 2012.
I’m glad I did. There’s no denying car has much better traction now. It digs in and wants to go forward.
I would not undo it.
Like I said above, you don’t know what you don’t know, until you find out.
A great handling car may or may not have wheel hop if it breaks traction.
There is no direct correlation between the two.
Not all cars respond identically to mods.
I’m suggesting that leaving the door open to other solutions could be beneficial in such a case.
I have a challenge for you.
Call Steeda.
Tell them you have lowered your car with their stuff. No brackets.
Tell them you like to do burnouts, but every time you do one you get wheel hop.
Tell them you want to get rid of the wheel hop.
Find out what they suggest or recommend?
The video is nice but does not address wheel hop, which was the point of the initial question.
I’m sure the car in the video handles well.
Mine handled well too prior to the brackets.
It still handles well, but now it has better traction than before the brackets.
The video answers nothing one way or the other.
They emphasize it’s a street build, which theoretically could spend its whole life without spinning the wheels.
They don’t launch hard in their demo.
They don’t speak of wheel hop or the brackets.
It proves nothing one way or another.
We don’t know what we don’t know about it.