Repaint vs wrap?

Ohtobbad said:
That all sounds wonderful, Not sure how it works.

But what ever system they used on my car is horrible
and was direct result of paint process.

Mercedes has the same problem with some of there
GTS models etc same at BMW and Audi.

All that said, I will have to re-paint my car after 4 years and 35,000km
I realize our roads and the sticky tires on my car do not help.
But I am now resigned to the fact that a $5K paint job is
one of my major mods every 4-6 years.

Unless I can come up with a paint solution or coating that
doesn't cost as much as a re-paint to help extend the life.
Click to expand...
ChromeMustangChina-02.jpg


Try chroming it!
 
I’m all about paint.
Did I say I would paint before wrapping?
I would paint before wrap.
Seriously, any and all wraps I’ve seen at the dealership are all crap.
Trade-in ricers. Commercial vehicles. They’re all bad.
Paint by a competent pro.
My green car has had all but both doors painted.
If I did not tell, you’d be hard pressed to tell it was.
 
As it was said earlier in the tread, nothing beats the original paint. Well, at least in older models i guess. I am trying to make mine go as long as possible without having to repaint any part of the thing (yeah, i cheat since i changed the hood lol), so I am polishing it every year or two, depending on the severity of the finish's clarity. Since it's usually well taken care of, i only have to do a little jeweling polish to return the luster back, but this time mine is heavily swirled and I will probably not escape a two step correction procedure. This usually takes me a little more than a full day, correcting only, protection after.
As for the battle scars, mine is riddled with it. If anyone is looking closely to mine, i have more rock chips than i care to admit AND the front bumper seems to almost be sandblasted from the time it passed in Ontario and Montreal. Assuming someone driving bumper to bumper all the time lol. For the rock chips, i use this little pen.

https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Loew-Cornell-Stylo-à-peinture-fine/dp/B004YZXV8U/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_fr_CA=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=lowe+cornell+fine+line+painting+pen&qid=1577900706&sr=8-2

anyone who researched intensively to do their own car detailing have found the brand Ammo NYC and it's founder, Larry Kosilla. He is my inspiration with using this touch up pen for my rock chips over any other method. He is showing this here in the below video (long, painfull to watch to some, but i love these videos :) ). Restoring paint on a XX years car with original paint that nobody wants to have repainted, that's this video. And although I obviously do not have an old Porsche worth tons of money, I want to get the most of the rock chips out of the ride, and that's my way of doing it.


I repair the chips using the pen, then let it ample time to cure and come back with my polisher and correct my whole paint. by doing so i also cut any over application of the touch up pen. That my own procedure, to each their own. :)



For the record, when it will be time, that my OG paint will be too shot to be corrected, when there will be more chips than OG paint, then at this point I will either A) repaint in the same color or B) Wrap IF I want to change the color of the car for a little while.
I tend more going to the repaint.

OP, if i'd were you, i'd fill in the imperfections, correct the paint where required (shouldn't be big, you just went to the SPA with that car last fall) and then install MAYBE a clear wrap over the most road hazard succeptible areas?? (hood, front bumper/fenders, etc.)

Make the OG paint as long as you'll be able to do.

my too long $0.02 :)
 
Agree. Original paint or factory finish is the best and you only get that once.
Makes me wonder sometimes when clients or their salesmen insist on correcting a small run in the paint on something like the tailgate of an SUV, on a panel creese.
I tell the salesman that that is the factory finish and you only get that once.
Besides, paint is thicker there so better protection.
One salesman recently retorted while I may call it factory finish he viewed it as a factory FU.
Interpretation and point of view different for different folks.
However, experienced and professional painters can lay down paint that will be as good, if not better than factory these days.
Choosing the right painter and shop is key to any repaint.
 
If most people knew 30-40% of cars are sold with repairs done
or knowing it will be back for a repair.
Between transport and test drives,
parking lot dings to stolen and replaced items.
Rarely do you get a perfect factory product.
Also a % of cars from factory go back through
after QC finds issues.
 
Ohtobbad said:
If most people knew 30-40% of cars are sold with repairs done
or knowing it will be back for a repair.
Between transport and test drives,
parking lot dings to stolen and replaced items.
Rarely do you get a perfect factory product.
Also a % of cars from factory go back through
after QC finds issues.
Click to expand...
For alot of the reasons noted, I have never owned a "brand new to me" vehicle. Have had a number of quality rides but all have endured the first bruise with another owner.
 
S197CS said:
As it was said earlier in the tread, nothing beats the original paint. Well, at least in older models i guess. I am trying to make mine go as long as possible without having to repaint any part of the thing (yeah, i cheat since i changed the hood lol), so I am polishing it every year or two, depending on the severity of the finish's clarity. Since it's usually well taken care of, i only have to do a little jeweling polish to return the luster back, but this time mine is heavily swirled and I will probably not escape a two step correction procedure. This usually takes me a little more than a full day, correcting only, protection after.
As for the battle scars, mine is riddled with it. If anyone is looking closely to mine, i have more rock chips than i care to admit AND the front bumper seems to almost be sandblasted from the time it passed in Ontario and Montreal. Assuming someone driving bumper to bumper all the time lol. For the rock chips, i use this little pen.

https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/Loew-Cornell-Stylo-à-peinture-fine/dp/B004YZXV8U/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_fr_CA=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=lowe+cornell+fine+line+painting+pen&qid=1577900706&sr=8-2

anyone who researched intensively to do their own car detailing have found the brand Ammo NYC and it's founder, Larry Kosilla. He is my inspiration with using this touch up pen for my rock chips over any other method. He is showing this here in the below video (long, painfull to watch to some, but i love these videos :) ). Restoring paint on a XX years car with original paint that nobody wants to have repainted, that's this video. And although I obviously do not have an old Porsche worth tons of money, I want to get the most of the rock chips out of the ride, and that's my way of doing it.


I repair the chips using the pen, then let it ample time to cure and come back with my polisher and correct my whole paint. by doing so i also cut any over application of the touch up pen. That my own procedure, to each their own. :)



For the record, when it will be time, that my OG paint will be too shot to be corrected, when there will be more chips than OG paint, then at this point I will either A) repaint in the same color or B) Wrap IF I want to change the color of the car for a little while.
I tend more going to the repaint.

OP, if i'd were you, i'd fill in the imperfections, correct the paint where required (shouldn't be big, you just went to the SPA with that car last fall) and then install MAYBE a clear wrap over the most road hazard succeptible areas?? (hood, front bumper/fenders, etc.)

Make the OG paint as long as you'll be able to do.

my too long $0.02 :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing Max, never seen that before. Will have to get one.
 
Found this gem of a youtube video. (Was pondering if I should start a brand new tread or tag along this one on the matter).

Same guy that gave me the hint on the Loew-Cornell touch up pen, but he's going even more in depth with it's techniques and tools he's using. Kind of like the syringe and toothpick ideas for the verticals as it is indeed basically impossible for the Loews-Cornell pen to work vertical surfaces.



 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top