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Last pieces of the T-Top puzzle: They are in "reasonable" shape and I could just bolt them on a repaint them, but they have that little bit of rust starting in the pinch welds and there are several coats of paint on them, the last being some gawd awful kind of rattle can flat black. Someone...

Well, after 20 years of using an old Canadian tire cheapo welder, I've finally had enough. Blowing holes in my new floor pan was the final straw. I just ordered a Lincoln 180. 220v mig welder that can take a spool gun. Its a step tap voltage instead of the rheostat style, but my cheapo 110v...

Yep. Part of the job.

Well, it's in: At least it's somewhat fit to the car. The cut off wheels were disintegrating at a foolish pace, the welder was giving me fits with blowing through perfectly good metal no matter what I did and the tiny little hole (ie: single car garage) I'm working in was frustrating me to...

:)

Last bit of the rear floor came out this morning. Cleaned up the rusties and hit it with Tremclad inside the frame rails. Fitting the replacement pan as we speak. Then I'll make up a small patch panel where the floor meets the firewall and start burning it all in....

Last bit of the rear floor came out this morning. Cleaned up the rusties and hit it with Tremclad inside the frame rails. Fitting the replacement pan as we speak. Then I'll make up a small patch panel where the floor meets the firewall and start burning it all in....

Started cutting and it's not as bad as I though it would be: . The really bad stuff was limited to the floor pan itself. Caught it just in time as it's not into the unibody channels other than a light surface rust here and there. That will clean right up. Then a shot of weld through primer...

and then: :)

Yeah, re-read my post and realized I was just being lazy so I'm doing the full pan. Started cutting and it's not as bad as I though it would be: . That will clean right up. A shot of weld through primer and I'll be off to the races. :)

My car was left to sit in a friends field for a couple years. The drivers side inner cowl rotted out around the air horn, the carpet stayed wet and well....the drivers side floor pan is toast. Mice had gotten into it as well and made a home under the back seat. We all know that mice piss and...

Pulling the dash and column out in order to start rust repairs. I suddenly find myself wishing for 5 minutes in a locked room and a baseball bat with the f-tard who designed the attachment method for this thing. Be no problem on the assembly line when there were no doors or windshield on the...

It's looking like it's a possibility. Maybe not quite finished (are they ever?), but a possibility none-the-less.....

Yep. Hoping to get the drivers floor in this weekend and maybe start on the T-Roof. Tomorrow it's up early and start cutting out the rot. Hopefully burning new metal in by supertime.

Another score today. I've been searching for an 83/84 oem hood scoop for as long as I can remember. Looks like this: They're either impossible to find (only two year option), or priced over the moon, or the sellers won't separate them from the hood. Even if it's a completely rotted out...

Couldn't help myself, total impulse buy: 100 bucks. It's for a cougar, but I plan to recover it in leather anyways. I'll have to relocate my cruise control buttons, probably to the center console area where I plan to mount the power window switches.

Had a nice gent from Ontario reply to my kijiji add for door glass. Turns out he's on his way down to the valley for xmas with family and he has a yard in Ontario with a wrecked fox mustang t-top. He's selling me the doors and the T roof glass (although rare, they have been known to "pop out"...

Too late: And then along came a sawsall: Realistically, my car is 90-98% a street car. I'm also a product of the 80's and t-tops......well, they scream 80's. I'm going to pass on the frilly shirts and big hair though. Hmmm, I wonder if I still have any leather ties? :)

Quick! Someone talk me out of putting t tops in the car!!!!

I'm toying with a MM adjustable rear sway bar, but that's not an inexpensive piece. Jack Hidley says it would make a world of difference, but it's going to come out somewhere around 6-800 bucks. I think I'll just have to console myself with the oem style sway bar for a while longer. I've just...