Try this again.
Cool! Knowing your background helps steer the conversation.
I’ll share info on the items in the Steeda list above in bullet form to keep it somewhat condensed-ish. Ha! Ha!
About myself, I have done suspension on 2 cars like yours. An 05 automatic (sold) and a 06 manual which I still own and love to throw around corners. I’ve tried basic autocross once, but have attended multiple High Performance Driving events at different tracks in Canada and US.
First, re-reading your initial question, you’re ok with present ride quality. You want to lower for looks but wonder how much worse lowering will be, if at all?
It will be different but not necessarily much worse.
It will be a bit sharper over bumps and expansion joints but the fact that there will be less suspension travel kind of makes the car feel a bit lighter. Or like there’s less mass hitting the bottom at full compression.
Although the impact is sharper, it’s over more quickly.
But the improvements in steering response and handling more than make up for any added harshness. You’ll simply be amazed at the improved difference. You have to experience it to understand how much difference it makes.
SVT4MT, Mike, echos this sentiment in his post above.
The 555 8206 item is the Steeda Ultralite springs. They drop the car 1.25 front and 1.5 rear, like the Eibach pro kit and Ford K springs. I have no experience with them but Steeda’s description says they are their least aggressive springs and suggests they have a less harsh ride than others within the lowering spring universe.
I run the Ford P springs.
Sway bars, You know what they do and they don’t affect stance or ride plushness. They keep car flat in corners. If you consider them, front and rear should be done at same time to maintain balance.
Specifically on Steeda, I don’t like their design because they don’t have grease fittings. If they start to squeak you can’t easily lube them.
On other hand, both Eibach and Ford Performance sway bars have grease fittings.
Again here as with the springs, the Ford bars are made by Eibach under contract.
I run the Eibach bars.
Steeda strut mounts, I actually don’t know much about the Steeda mounts.
The industry standard for upgrades is the Ford GT500 strut mount.
But if you value fine tuning your alignments, especially camber settings, and eliminating strut deflection on turn in, for sharp and responsive steering, then you should consider caster-camber plates.
They replace the strut mounts all together and have steel ball bearing instead of rubber bushing.
The camber and caster aren't adjustable on these cars from the factory. Only toe.
Several manufacturers make CC plates, including Steeda, but industry leader among track going Mustangs is arguably Maximum Motorsports.
I run Maximum Motorsports CC on my 3 Mustangs.
Steeda dampers. They have a good reputation. As good as the ones mentioned above previously; Bilstein, Eibach, Ford Performance or Tokico.
I run Bilstein”s on my ‘06 and Ford Performance on my ‘15.
Adjustable Panhard bar.
This is actually a very good point brought up.
The rear end on these cars is a 3 link setup with a Panhard bar.
The geometry of the setup causes the rear axle to move slightly to the left as the car goes down or as the suspension gets compressed.
If you keep stock wheels and tires, there will still be plenty of room and no rubbing issues. But if you plan on wider wheels and tires in future, or if you notice small details like that, lowering car 1 to 1.5 inch in back will move axle and you will see it.
No 2 cars respond identically but axle could move over as much as 1/4 to 1/2 inch, give or take.
I think Steeda bar is Chromoly so would be a good choice.
I run BMR adjustable Panhard because years ago the Steeda bar adjusted from both ends, which made the adjusting difficult on RHS due to chassis material making it hard to get wrenches in there.
BMR bar adjusts in middle so much more user friendly.
But glance at Steeda site tonight suggests Steeda has changed its design so they also adjust in the middle now.
Panhard brace. Not necessary unless building car for track and want maximum lateral support in corners.
Car already has a Panhard brace from factory.
After market brace replaces factory brace with something more sturdy.
I run the Steeda chromoly Panhard brace.
Rear lower control arms.
Not necessary for street or touring application.
Biggest advantage of aftermarket is they replace rubber bushings with polyurethane.
This can stabilize axle in conditions of wheel spin to reduce axle hop.
Also improves traction on acceleration.
But if lowering car and want to maximize traction, as important as control arms would be relocation brackets for the control arms.
This is to keep angle of control arms similar to factory angle, which is the rear end of the control arm lower than the front.
Lowering car flattens control arms (more horizontal), leading to less weight on axle and less traction.
I run BMR non adjustable lower control arms with BMR relocation brackets.
Testing on drag car with multiple relocation brackets by Dasilva Racing revealed that BMR makes best (stoutest) relocation brackets.
Upper control arm.
Not necessary unless making high power with forced induction application, and want to stabilize axle as much as possible during hard acceleration.
Frequent result of changing out upper control arm is increased noise and vibration.
I’m still running my factory upper control arm.
Bump steer kit.
I don’t have any experience with these.
Don’t have it on either of my 2 lowered cars.
Don’t miss it and don’t think it’s necessary.
