Bump Steer Kit -- a Good Idea?


Well-known member
I have heard people talking about having to add a bump-steer kit after lowering their Stang to get a handle on the steering. What I am wondering is if anyone has added a bump-steer kit to a Stang that has not been lowered and if it made any difference to the handling? My '02 GT Convertible tries to take control of the steering on our bumpy Island roads and I am wondering if a kit would help? My car has not been lowered...at least not yet! Any brands to stay away from/recommend? Thamks!


Well-known member
I think Helimech had this on his car. He was taking it to the track though. For street use it may not make much of a difference. The intent as I understand it is to aovid unwanted steering while in a turn, ie like on the race track.
A bump steer kit usually is a an extended stud on the outer tie rod end. It is intended to level the tie rod by raising the outer end. This to avoid unwanted steering when deflections in suspension occur.


Well-known member
I wouldn't recommend unless you are tracking the car or willing to invest in other suspension areas. It may help a little, but there are so many other variables in the Mustang suspension that will still give the wandering on less than perfect roads. ie: soft rubber bushings and that hydro-bushing in the front lower control arm. I had Maximum Motorsports (highly recommended) on my car but it was lowered and was for track use. My front suspension was full polyurathane and heim style joints and it still wandered on less than perfect roads. Trammelling from the wide tires as well. On the track it was perfection though. On lowered cars the extended ball joints are another requirement. There is also the maintenance side: the bump steer kits are all unprotected from the elements, heim style joints, unlike your tie rod ends. Hope this helps.


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Thank you for the advice. i do not plan on tracking my convertible. Someone had suggested bump-steer kit as a way to improve handling but not in this case I see.


I have two lowered Mustangs and don't use a bump steer kit on either.
Don't feel the need. Both cars are very stable.
I've never driven a car so equipped so have no feedback to offer on bump steer kits.

What I do know, from experience, is that all Mustangs, except for those special editions where attention was paid specifically to suspension such as Shelby's, Boss's or Performance Pack editions, have just average handling from the factory.
They have body roll and vague on center feel.
They nose dive or squat under braking or acceleration.
They have a floaty front end and/or too much rebound.
Like riding a boat on swells, or and old Lincoln with under inflated tires.
With the age of your car dampers could be getting tired, leading to momentary loss of tire contact with the road on the rough roads you describe.
Each time there is such contact patch loss the car's tracking of you travel direction is lost or disturbed.
This gives an erratic drive.
This could be the feeling you are describing.

All of the above is why I tell enthusiasts that good suspension work on a Mustang yields as much Wow factor as adding a bunch of power.
Many or most don't believe me because they simply "don't know what they don't know".

I can use my low mileage 2015 as a recent example.
It had a flaoty front end and bouncy rear end from too much shock rebound.
It was not a fun drive.

I cured that with a conservative drop using minimum drop BMR springs and Ford Performance track dampers.
It's a whole new car. Fun to drive. Totally confident handling. Amazing difference.
To cure any residual body roll, I also did Eibach sway bars.

I would suggest that your car could use a similar transformation.
A set of conservative drop springs from Eibach, Steeda, Ford Performance or BMR.
You can't go wrong with any of these. You pick.
And a set of dampers. You can't go wrong with Bilstein.
Ford Performance, Eibach or Steeda would also be good options.

Don't rush for the sway bars. Those can be done separately.
Wait to see what results you get from the springs and dampers.

You won't believe the transformation.
It will make you "Love" your Mustang all over again.
That feeling you had when you first got it. Remember?
Your internal reaction will be: "Wow, I should have done this sooner!"

I had the same issues with my 2005 and 2006 solid rear axle cars previously.
Same cure, springs and dampers.
The first time I did suspension work, I got that feeling of "Wow, I should have done this sooner!"
That's how I know.

The Mustang is a relatively inexpensive car for its sporting nature, especially in GT form.
Similar power to Europeans costing two, three or four times the cost, or Corvettes and other similar performance cars.
In order to keep the cost low for that much power, something has to be left on the table.
On the Mustang, the suspension is one area where a significant amount is left on the table.

Respectfully submitted and based on first hand, personal experience.
Regards, and good luck with your search for a solution


Well-known member
67 AGAIN;n34218 said:
I would suggest that your car could use a similar transformation.
A set of conservative drop springs from Eibach, Steeda, Ford Performance or BMR.
You can't go wrong with any of these. You pick.
And a set of dampers. You can't go wrong with Bilstein.
Ford Performance, Eibach or Steeda would also be good options."

Thanks. Will look into doing those things next. I did replace the old shocks and struts a while ago and that helped some but it needs more to make it less unruly!


No you don’t need to install CC plates.
You can do very well with camber bolts alone.
The two don’ combine. It’s one or the other.
Practically no extra labour cost either.
BMR makes a good set for good price.
A small fraction of the cost of CC plates.
Like less than $50.00 taxes and shipping all in. Might be less than $30.00.
I gorget if they are like $9.00 a piece or $19.00 a piece.
I also believe Eibach make some but a bit more expensive than BMR.
This is one part that paying more for gives you zero advantage.


The main reason I do CC plates is because they replace the rubber bushing upper strut mount all together.
So you end up replacing a rubber bushing with a spherical bearing.
This resists deflection much more during spirited cornering.
Less or no play at the top of the strut so steering is sharper.

A consideration for you would be if you feel you strut mounts need to be or should be replaced.
Then CC plates become an option to consider because the money you would be putting on strut mounts can go towards CC plates instead. And you also don’t need to pay for the camber bolts.
Some indications of worn strut mounts are clunking or knocking sounds when hitting holes or bumps, or turning the steering lock to lock like a tight parking situation.
Or visual inspection when you take them apart.

Secondary benefits of CC plates are wider range for camber adjustment.
If one desires aggressive camber.
And obviously, you can also play with caster.
But these should not be priority for your use I suspect.
Camber bolts do not affect your caster.
It is set to a factory range by the upper strut mount and non adjustable.


Buy the way, you’re most welcome Griff.
I’m Marc by the way. But I’m terrible with remembering names.
I remember the cars way easier than the names.
If I can help anyone on this forum have better experiences with their Mustang, I’m all for that.
I’m just a Mustang guy that feels the positive energy if another Mustang fan appreciates their car too.
If I can facilitate that, I’m happy.

So, on my drive home I thought of more information for you.
There is a possibility you may not need camber bolts either.
Depending on how your car reacts to new springs, it may still align within specs, and more importantly, specs that you are happy with.
General rule of thumb, lowering a car increases negative camber slightly.
Not necessarily out of spec, just more than the starting point was.
You could get the springs done and have your alignment checked.
If the result is still within spec and you or your alignment guy are happy with that result, you’re good to go.
If result is out of spec or you feel is too aggressive on the camber, then get the camber bolts and you’re back in business.
You could try that tiered approach.

If you want assurance that job is done right and within spec on first try, then camber bolts (one per side) are the least expensive, easiest and fastest way to get camber back in spec.