For Owners of Mustangs from the Mid-80's and older

I recently went through a long agonizing summer troubleshooting my ill 83 5.0 Foxbody which still had many original factory installed parts.
Here is my story and I hope other older Mustang owners will find what I did to find and solve the issue helpful

In the late spring I began experience irregular and inconsistent engine shut down/stalling issues under very different conditions

Suspect #1 Carburetor

Taking into account the age of the vehicle, some research on symptoms that pointed to the carburetor, and suspicion that the carburetor may be in poor condition.I had the carburetor rebuilt
This solved some if the stalling issues but the stalling continued although less frequently

Suspect # 2 Vacuum leaks

After replacing and or eliminating suspected failed or malfunctioning components in the factory emissions control system. Things again improved but one could tell things were just not quite right. Other issues like hard starting, occasional stalling, rough idling, misfiring and other performance issues began to appear

Suspect # 3 High Voltage Electrical Components

Considering the car still had almost all its original High voltage electrical components Plugs, Wires, Rotor & Distributor Cap the next step was to change all these aforementioned parts. Success the stalling issue seemed to have been corrected but the engine was operating poorly and the idle was very rough. While corrosion and arcing was found on the Distributor Cap and rotor 7 of the 8 plugs seemed to be in good condition and the 1 fouled plug was the result of a bad lead

Suspect # 4 Ignition timing

While checking the timing with a borrowed timing light I noticed that the strobe of the timing light was very erratic at idle to the point it was almost impossible to read the timing marks. After moving the timing light pickup sensor around to other wires, seeing the same effect and observing erratic movement of the tachometer needle which gets its signal from the coil the health of the Ignition coil became suspect.
After a quick run to the Autoparts store and about 10 minutes to install a replacement coil The strobe on the timing light became very consistent and once the timing was set the car's performing improved greatly becoming much more reliable.

Conclusion

Even though much of the work done to achieve a much healthier Mustang was probably long overdue It is felt that a failing Ignition coil due to its age may well have been the root cause of many of the issues experienced. So don't forget about the coil or assume it is ok just because there is a spark. It may not be as healthy a you think
 
Thanks for posting your efforts to get the 83 reliable again. It's 36 years old, and should be good for years to come now.

When I got my 2001 in 2011, after changing one or 2 Coil on Plugs the first year, (there is one per cylinder, 8), In year 2, I ended up replacing all 8 Coils with Ford Parts, sealing everything with Die Electric Grease. Along with a new set of Platinum Ford Plugs, problem solved. And the key to the 4.6 Modular engine, is that it doesn't like water, no engine shampoos.
 
Check all your grounds, they can cause havoc. At this age, every terminal, every contact is suspect unfortunately and throwing parts at it isn't the solution ( I just wasted $30 replacing the starter solenoid when it was just a ground issue ).

Nice job on that. Was it giving you any trouble anywhere else besides idle?
 
othercoaster;n34267 said:
Check all your grounds, they can cause havoc. At this age, every terminal, every contact is suspect unfortunately and throwing parts at it isn't the solution ( I just wasted $30 replacing the starter solenoid when it was just a ground issue ).

Nice job on that. Was it giving you any trouble anywhere else besides idle?

No not really I didn't experience any problems while driving except at idle. This made me very nervous every time I put my foot on the clutch coming to an intersection wondering if the engine was going to die on me

I am aware of one possible ground fault in the lighting circuit for the instrument cluster that is causing the lights to be very dim in the cluster. It is very confusing though as it shares a common ground point in the dimmer switch with the lights in the heater control and they are at full illumination. When I had the cluster apart to replace some blown and missing bulbs I thought the film that turns the light green was dirty or cloudy but that didn't seem to be the case. I can't see it being the dimmer switch because if that was the case all the instrument lights would be affected
 
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