Did Santa leave you any Mustang swag, or parts?

67 AGAIN

Enthusiast
Could have posted in Man cave-garage, Die-cast or even Merry Christmas 2022 posts but figured I’d start a new thread for swag or parts any of you may have gotten yesterday from the jolly old fellow.

I’ll start things off with the stuff he left me.

With just having gotten the Shelby in October, which was a big deal to begin with because I never thought I would achieve that dream, you’ll see a theme in the items.

With the help of my son, Santa left me a Hot Wheels GT350 and a GT350 parking only sign.

With the help of my dear wife, he left me the other two Shelby themed signs and the Mustang garage sing, plus 3 T-shirts.

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Two short sleeve T’s.

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Long sleeve T, which I like because I love to drive with windows down in the summer and sometimes the left arm gets too much sun. Long sleeve T takes care of that.

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Awesome scores Marc!! Santa was really nice to you.

Santa (aka the wife and kids) found me as well. When comparing Jason’s car to mine last year when they were side by side he mentioned he had some 1” spacers. I really liked the look of it. I am on the fence if I am going all 4 corners or just in the rears. I have paint concerns but maybe I am worrying for nothing. Just in case Santa brought me a set of 4. Also got a cool mug with a picture of the old one as well as a plate with a picture of the old one. I will probably hang the plate on the wall of the Mustang Corral. I love them all.

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Ha, Ha.
You drank the cool aid they sell in the video. ?

I wondered if you could explain real seat of the pants difference.

That’s one part that, for me anyways, is hard to pinpoint any noticeable or describe-able difference.
I can’t put into words any perceivable difference between the two DS.

But when we changed it, the weight difference was obvious, something like 18 lbs., if I remember correctly.
Now that is 18 total lbs less of weight, but also 18 lbs less of rotational mass, so I know it’s a good thing to help acceleration, but I can’t say that I feel it independently from additional engine power, engine tuning or a gear upgrade, for example.
I just know the car pulls very well.

Less weight is one of the big advertised benefits of aluminium or CF one piece driveshafts.
Less weight because of material used and eliminating the center bearing, as you mention.
For that, if you can measure a difference, then you have to trust the science.
Less weight and less rotational mass is always good for acceleration.
I would buy one for this reason alone.

The second claimed benefit, which is the one that I can’t confirm, is that, in theory, they say it reduces driveline vibration by eliminating the center bearing and reducing the number of shafts from 2 to 1.

Nice advertising campaign, but in real life I can’t back that claim.
When I’m pulling hard at 7000 rpm, there is some driveline vibration. I can’t pinpoint where it’s coming from exactly.
Everything gets strained turning at maximum velocity.

On my car, the OE 2 piece driveshaft is well balanced and vibration free.
I noticed this when I had to remove the one piece after blowing the rubber expansion sleeve as documented in the other DS thread.
While I was waiting to repair the sleeve on the one piece, I stuck the 2 piece back on and, to be honest, I think it was smoother than the one piece, definitely no worse.
It’s not like I could say; ho wow what a difference!
I just couldn’t.
Sometimes that’s how you notice the difference between parts, it’s after you’ve had them on and take them back off.
It’s not always that obvious when you first put them on.
Maybe something to do with the placebo effect of some mod parts.

But as stated above, I want the one piece if for nothing else but the weight savings and put it back on as soon as I could.

The small vibrations I do have have not gotten any worse over time so I know everything is tight and fastened properly.
I chalk it up to the “character” of the car.

To answer the question: same benefit to 2000?
Weight savings results in similar benefit for any car.
Laws of physics.
Less overall weight and less rotational mass = better acceleration.
Rotational mass is not just the driveshaft.
It can be wheels or brake rotors.
It all adds up.
 
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I will agree on weight savings, and unspring weight is even more valuable.
To me for that its worth it alone, but then I have never changed mine.

When it comes to performance of any part, my first question is simple
How do you use the car? How do you drive it?

How you drive and what you want to achieve should give you the direction
of your mods, Unless you like to impress people with a big list or dyno numbers.

Most people never get anywhere near the edge, this and how close dictates what to do.
and how to spend your money IMO What order is a far easier conversation.
 
My reason for change was wear - rubber on centre bearing was getting worn / soft after 250,000+ km. And rear cv had some play. Cost to rebuild CV joints on old shaft paid for most of the new one. Centre support bearing appears to be a - buy the full 2 piece shaft shaft option- so voice was easy
 
For Me it is cost benefit and Smile factor

$ 599 USD plus install is there benefit and just as importantly will it make you happy

I have installed a lot of mods because they just make me happy :)

Subjective question.

Benefit? Different for everyone.

White5.0 says it got rid of a clunking noise when he engages his automatic transmission. Loose u-joint or mid bearing on his old shaft so he bought a one piece.
He further adds that he likes the idea that it won’t rust like the OE shaft.
Important to him for when he looks under his car.

05 gt 5speed had 250,000 plus km on his original shaft. Loose in center bearing and rear u-joint. He needed a new shaft as well and also decided to go one piece.

I have one because I have a built car and wanted the lower rotational mass.

Benefits vary between individuals. Subjective.

Will it make you happy?
Only you know the answer to that question.

You hardly ever see the thing.
You can’t hear it.
You can’t feel it.
It’s not like you can say to someone, “come try my car, you’ll feel my new DS”.
If you don't know what kind of DS a car has, you can’t tell from driving the car.

All you know is if it is a lighter DS, it should improve your acceleration.
Only way to know by how much is to run tests on a track without light DS and then with light DS, and then compare acceleration times to see by how many tenths or hundredths of a second it improves.
And if manual car, are the results even good?
Are you a good enough driver that all your shifts are identical from run to run?

You’re not going to notice by seat of your pants.
Not like suspension work.

Two identical cars.
Only difference, driveshafts, you can’t tell just from driving which has which.

Two identical cars.
One has full suspension done, you’ll know in first 100 meters.
And you’ll definitely know in first corner.

Read Trevor’s post again.
How do you drive your car?
What are your goals?
Does a part like I describe above make you happy?

$600 US is going to be &1200 to &1500 Canadian by time you’re all done, with exchange, shipping, brokerage, install and taxes.

I don’t know your car or what your goals are, but for me, I would use that money for other things before s DS.

Suspension would be top of list.
A set of gears.
Brakes.
CAI and tune.
Exhaust. Long tubes. High flow mid pipe. Open mufflers.

All stuff you can hear, see and feel.
Probably more chance of making you “happy”.
 
Big Plus with drive shaft on older car, is your likely replacing something that will and has worn to some level
or like in Gerry;s case, is done. Perforrmance parts more often than not are better.
So 2 birds one stone in my mind.

But I agree with Marc. First is always suspension and brakes.
cold air kit and tune, tune does far more than most realize and you see difference right away.
tires and as light wheels as you can afford ( light wheels are expensive )

Few apperance mods are always in order, let the world know its your car.

After that it becomes what you want,
want always cost more than need ?
 
This started as a what did you get for Christmas so let’s hope those who buy you Mustang goodies really know you and your goals.
As said by all, decide how you drive and spend mod money wisely. My car is a mostly a cruiser, it’s not new, not driven on a track, normally at the back of the herd but i wanted the ability to “catch up” as needed. I’d rather run crooked roads to straight so brakes to slow down (good pads and rotors to suit my driving, ) some suspension mods ( good shocks and struts) lowering for looks . I’ll be honest - this definitely didn’t improve the ride. Timing chains and guides got done last year, driveshaft this year, 3.73’s (want)and axle replacement (soon need) are on the horizon wish list . I’ love to have a set of wide staggered 18’s but I’m too cheap. Seats need some recover work but that can wait, paint got buffed, and I’m looking forward to 2023 and more miles with smiles while I can still buy premium gas.

PS I do enjoy helping others spend their mod money and at times have even been to help with the installations.
 
Gone way down the off ramp with this one, but I'm reminded how mods drove me crazy with my '06, trying to decide what upgrades to make.

Agreed there's the ones you can feel, seat of your pants, like 4.11's, sweet Jesus that was a good mod, and the FR3 Handling Pack.

Got tired of agonizing over what to do, much prefer the GT350, where everything's done right off the assembly line, and other than some minor upgrades like the lowering springs and jacking rails and catch cans, I can just enjoy it and not chase the next high of a mod.

I'm not saying that doings mods is a bad thing, there's satisfaction to upgrades for sure, but it's all subjective as to how you want to spend your money.

Really though, at the end of the day, let's face it, with these cars, and with the drivers on this forum, it's Christmas all year round. ;)(y)(y)
 
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