Congratulations on the purchase.
Welcome to the forum.
Although something tells me you felt just a bit of pressure to join from the owner of a certain blue car. ?
I’ve done a lot to 3 valve S-197’s.
Start using 91 octane only, if not already done.
Then, definitely suspension first.
Brakes are actually pretty good on these cars if staying under 400 hp and not building excess heat in them such as going on track or doing autocross.
Except for his engine and transmission, your father-law’s car is identical to yours.
So if you like the results of the suspension bits he did, do the same.
No need to reinvent the wheel.
If you can manage it, I would simply counsel to do it all in one shot.
That way you won’t be into labour costs to take apart the same components 2 or 3 times.
List to button everything up would read as follows:
-Springs and dampers all around.
Since car is 13 years old, strongly consider upgraded strut mounts.
-Sway bars front and rear.
-Rear Lower Control Arms,
-Relocation brackets for said LCA’s.
-Adjustable Panhard bar.
Panhard brace optional.
-Camber bolts to complete alignment.
Caster-Camber plates optional in lieu of both strut mounts and camber bolts.
If using CC plates they replace the strut mount and no need for camber bolts.
Aaron used Eibach pro kit springs for 1.25” drop in front and 1.5” drop in back.
Those are the most popular/common springs and drop for 05 to 14 Mustangs.
If you find that a bit low for your taste, I would counsel Ford Racing “P” springs that would drop your car 1” all around.
Incidentally, they are made by Eibach for Ford.
Aaron’s choice of Eibach dampers and sway bars is excellent.
Only other dampers I would counsel would be Bilstein or Ford Racing.
Go with the Eibach sway bars. The best.
Also incidentally, Eibach makes the sway bars for Ford Racing.
As for his choice of BMR for LCA’s, relo. brackets and Panhard bar, do the same.
You’ll be hard pressed to find better elsewhere.
Same for his choice of Maximum Motorsports for CC plates, should you opt to go that route.
Note in case you are wondering:
Replacing of rear Upper Control Arm is not necessary.
It is a much shorter piece therefor it’s added benefit is much less than the LCA’s.
Really not necessary unless you are building a race car or making huge power.
And even then it can be added at anytime without undoing any of the other stuff previously done.
Down side to UCA is it is more prone to increasing NVH, Noise, Vibration and Harshness.
LCA’s, unless spherical bearing type, don’t really increase NVH but add noticeable return.
After all the above, you won’t recognize your car.
Much more fun to toss around those roundabouts in Charlottetown.
Then better tires (and possibly wheels) will maximize it all with added mechanical grip and stronger sidewalls.
Enjoy the process.
It’s fun to compare the results to what it was before.
